Editor's blog: What will become of the Annapurna Circuit?
The Annapurna Circuit, Nepal (Cred: Nicolas Claxton)
Wednesday, 03, Jun 2009 04:53
Bloggers on trekking holidays in Nepal are reporting the "end of an era" and really you are almost out of time if you want to experience the Annapurna Circuit trek as the magical experience it once was.
This has long been touted as the best trek in the world, a rite of passage for gap year travellers and hardcore hiking fans alike.
But construction of a road in the northern part of the Annapurna Circuit - through Tatopani to the temple at Muktinath - means the pristine natural environment of this section of the circuit will now be interrupted by noisy vehicle traffic.
The part of the trek with the most beautiful mountain scenery, and of course the famous Thorung La pass, will remain untouched - an eight day section from Chame to Jomsom.
But for many the most attractive feature of the Annapurna Circuit is the cultural experience of visiting the lower altitude Nepali villages. There aren't many real villages above 3,000 metres.
Trekking operators such as Himalayan Kingdoms are already advertising alternative routes to take trekkers into the natural and cultural wilderness of the Annapurna region.
But the alternative route requires a bit more effort to get to the unspoilt landscape - with some trekking days being bumped up to eight hours.
Rumours of the road extending as far south as Pokhara could alter the nature of trekking in the region forever.
On the other hand, the road will be a bonus for trekkers who are on a tight schedule. For travellers who want to fly in to Pokhara, do a trek and fly out again, the road will allow people to experience some of the Annapurna Circuit in a fortnight - with the aid of a jeep or bus journey.
Drive the Annapurna Circuit?
It may ultimately be possible for tourists to be driven through the valley, hop out to take photos and carry on.
This is really the end of the Annapurna Circuit as a great trek - imagine walking along and being over taken by a 4X4 full of tourists toting huge cameras.
The road represents the slow creep of progress in this, one of the world's poorest nations. The government has talked about plans to introduce a different kind of tourism, featuring adventure attractions rather than the simple tea-house trekking, backpacker tourism so many have known and loved.
Communities that for years have relied on trekkers paying guides, porters and guesthouses could see their income decimated.
But, on the other hand, imagine communities whose only access to goods was by carrying supplies on their backs - now able to send and have delivered goods by vehicle.
Nepal's extreme poverty is for a large part due to poor transport facilities. Good roads mean development and the reduction of poverty. Who are we, the western leisure tourist, to deny Nepali's a chance to escape a life that we leave behind when we get on the plane?
The poorest are agricultural wage earners or small holding owners - who are often illiterate.
The political conflicts of recent years in the former Hindu kingdom have put the brakes on declining levels of poverty and the child mortality and malnutrition rates are high.
Nepal has many alternatives trekking areas with unspoilt natural and cultural experiences available. So let's consider Langtang or Ganesh Himal, Mustang or Dolpo for trekking holidays in Nepal and not begrudge the road.
Natasha von Geldern