Edinburgh: A foodie short break

From the top of the castle to the peak of the inactive volcano Arthur's Seat, Edinburgh is a resolutely beautiful city.

Gracefully aged architecture abounds, from the steep gothic tenements of the Royal Mile as it winds down from the castle to Holyrood Palace, to the relaxed Georgian splendour of the New Town that extends behind the city centre.

This Unesco world heritage site is understandably a very popular destination for holidaymakers, particularly in the summer months when the various festivals attract well in excess of a million visitors.

However, in recent years the reputation of Scotland's capital as a food destination has grown massively, with new restaurants, bakeries and delis – as well as some old favourites – winning both popular praise and prestigious awards.

For a light breakfast, look no further than Forth Floor, Harvey Nichols' rooftop cafe and restaurant, just behind Princes Street. Take a seat near the massive floor to ceiling windows and soak up the view of the rooftops and the nearby castle.

As well as being the perfect place to start a wintry day over a hot, rich Illy coffee and a fresh pastry, the lime, elderflower and cucumber alcohol-free cocktail is great for a summer breakfast on the roof terrace.

A short stroll from Harvey Nichols along Leith Walk is Valvona & Crolla, Edinburgh's undisputed food heaven, which was established back in 1934 and is still run by descendents of the same family.

It is close to impossible to leave here without buying something, both because of the staggering range of cheeses, meats and wines available, but also because everything is of such impeccably high quality.

The cafe in the back is also open from 8:00 for fresh, light Italian food – another great breakfast option.

Walking back into the centre – after taking the small but very worthwhile diversion to the butcher Crombie's and the deli Real Foods on Broughton Street – the options for lunch are tremendous.

From the relaxed restaurant that sits beneath the National Gallery on Princes Street, overlooking Princes Street Gardens, to the nearby vegetarian bistro Henderson's, every food mood is catered for.

For those looking for a little indulgence, the newly relocated Plaisir du Chocolat round the corner from Henderson's will ably live up to its name.

However, for a really classy lunch look no further than the Witchery or the Tower, run by famed restaurateur James Thomson.

Both offer very reasonable two course set menus, with some fine Scottish cooking. Think braised rabbit with mustard sauce and pommes puree at the Witchery or venison and suet pudding at the Tower.

For me the perfect views of the castle make the Tower the ideal choice for lunch, while the high-beamed ceilings and intimate baroque glamour of the Witchery are better suited to evening meals.

An afternoon stroll south from the centre to Bruntsfield is also highly recommended, after taking in the fantastic panoramic view of the whole city from the rooftop of the National Museum of Scotland (which houses the Tower restaurant).

You might then like to take a coffee in the chic student bar Favorit before crossing the Meadows.

Stop off at Peter Green on Marchmont Road for a strong selection of wines, ranging from affordable, quality bottles to some that are quite special, without being exceptionally priced.

From here another short wander brings you to Bruntsfield Place, where two speciality producers really shine above an already strong set of delis.

Coco Chocolate is a cosy little boutique, selling a massive range of organic chocolates handmade a few minutes' walk away, and the shop even offers a cookery school.

Bars of cardamom and cinnamon chocolate, as well as dark chocolate infused with rosemary, are really just the beginning of what is on offer there.

Back down the road, the warm, inviting smells when you open the door at Falko and the shop's immaculate presentation are an intriguing invitation to a world of master baking.

Champagne cake, honey cake, three-seed spiced bread, chocolate truffle cake, authentic stollen and sour dough bread are all fine examples of his skills, which were first seen at the Saturday morning farmers' market.

Falko recently began baking challah for Edinburgh's Jewish community and won last year's Observer award for best food producer. His shop is, understandably, a must.

Evenings in Edinburgh are nothing short of a delight for foodies. The centre offers the Atrium right beside the Lothian Road theatres and Oloroso with a wondrous view of the castle, but it is Leith – a short cab ride away – that is emerging as the place to eat.

The Kitchin won a Michelin star this year, but Restaurant Martin Wishart still leads the way.

Wishart has worked with the Roux family, Marco Pierre White and Gordon Ramsay and offers a rare dining experience: exceptional, thoughtfully prepared food presented with care and genuinely friendly, relaxed service.

How does lobster and smoked haddock soufflé or scallops with hazelnut butter, followed by mains like turbot poached in red wine served with roasted langoustines sound?

A cooking school is set to open soon, which combined with the full tasting menu may be the greatest gift you could give a food lover in Scotland.

To guiltily round off your time in Edinburgh, a pilgrimage to L'Alba d'Oro in the New Town is warmly recommended.

If you have any space left, their plump, juicy scampi and squid in savoury batter with piping hot chips are just fantastic.

Robbie Coltrane eats here, and few chip shops can boast a fine wine selection and cognacs pushing close to £1,000 a bottle. A treasure, and a fantastically fun way to round off your tour of Scotland's culinary capital.

For more information on visiting the city see the Edinburgh tourist board website.

Chris Wilson