Cycling the Ecuadorian Amazon

Zooming downhill on a bike from Ecuador's lush mountain highlands, passing stunning waterfalls and indigenous communities and into the Amazon rainforest in a single day is one of the world's most unique cycling adventures. Andy Gale reports for travelbite.co.uk about a truly fantastic adventure holiday experience.

Thanks to the network of roads built by oil exploration companies, Ecuador offers a unique alternative way of seeing one of the most important biodiversity hotspots in the world - the Amazon rainforest - by pedal power.

Beginning in the town of Banos, the 60 kilometre road winds its way to the town of Puyo in the Oriente - the Ecuadorian portion of the Amazon. Ecuador is Spanish for equator and this road provides spectacular views in an environment filled with amazing tropical vegetation.

Banos (1,820m) is famous for its hot springs and the picturesque town is set on the lush green slopes of Ecuador's steaming, and most active volcano, Tungurahua (5,016m).

Tungurahua, which means "throat of fire" in the indigenous Quichua language, recently erupted on February 6th 2008, causing the evacuation of local villages. Reports have indicated that Banos is currently not at risk but the Foreign and Commonwealth Office advises that people shoudl check safety conditions before travelling.

The mostly downhill road passes through lush green valleys dotted with awe inspiring waterfalls. The magnificent El Pailon del Diablo (the Devil's Cauldron) is a must see.

You can cross a rickety swing bridge for a different vantage point of the waterfall. But be on guard as it was here that a brilliant green snake dropped to the ground out of a tree right next to me before darting back into the safety of the jungle.

One of the most exhilarating, perhaps the maddest, sections of the trip is cycling through a long pitch-black tunnel under a mountain.

Without the aid of a light it is so dark that you have absolutely no perception of the whereabouts or even the existence of the walls. All you can do is scream your lungs out and aim towards the speck of natural light at the end of the tunnel.

The faster you go downhill, the less peddling you will have to do to climb the other side. Just as you reach the point of exhaustion at the top of the climb, you are rewarded with another exhilarating descent.

Take a break from the saddle at Rio Blanco and enjoy a thrilling ride in a motorised cable car over a magnificent deep river gorge. Not for the faint hearted, this is Ecuador's longest cable car route.

Stop at the town of Rio Verde and try a typical almuerzo (cheap set lunch menu) with the locals. The meal, consisting of trout, soup and one of the many exotic fruit juices, will cost around €1.50 (£1.10).

Many cyclists turn back satisfied at Rio Verde, catching a truck back to Banos and missing out on the glories waiting ahead.

The more adventurous who are willing to bike all the way to Puyo will be rewarded with a more authentic Amazon experience.

Penetrating deeper into the Amazon, the altitude drops, the jungle gets darker and steamier, and the sense of extreme remoteness increases.

Gazing from snow-capped volcanoes jutting above across jungle-crested ridges, cliff faces dropping into river beds and finally into the thick, steaming, all-enveloping jungle, you may have to pinch yourself in disbelief at these almost mystical views.

Exotic fauna such as wild orchids, flame-coloured flowers, sugar cane, and tropical fruits such as papaya, bananas and naranjillo surround you.

Stop and watch the dazzling multi-coloured butterflies, giant ants, and ugly hunchbacked vultures perched high in the trees, drying their outstretched wings in the sun.

Smile and wave at children playing at roadside Amazonian indigenous communities, living traditional lives in simple wooden huts raised on poles.

These people seem to be at a cross roads with the 'civilisation' of the developed world that is being forced on them by the oil companies. Many travellers will discover that the human element of the journey is also fascinating.

Cycling through rugged little jungle towns with names such as Shell offers a pretty good clue as to why a sealed road even exists in this remote region.

It almost seems wrong to be benefiting from the destructive forces of the crude oil-hungry companies drilling in one of the Earth's most pristine environments.

Puyo is a friendly, rickety, old jungle town with an edgy, border town feel. Upon arrival, load your bike on the back of a local bus and relax for the journey home, dreaming of a hot thermal bath.

If you have sore legs, what better way to start the next day than to soak in a hot thermal bath with the locals in Banos (which means pool of water), which some say promote longevity.

This journey is in a category all of its own. With never a dull moment it is guaranteed to fascinate the curious and delight both nature lovers and adventure seekers.

Details:
This cycling trip can be completed in one day. Although unnecessary, a guide can also be arranged. A near new mountain bike will cost approximately €5 (£3.75) to hire for the day, and along with affordable hotels and guesthouses for every budget, Banos makes for a very cheap holiday destination in South America.

Banos can be reached on a very scenic 3.5 hour bus ride from Quito. Known as Ecuador's adventure holiday capital, the town has a pleasant subtropical climate at the gateway to the Amazon.

River rafting trips, horseback riding, trekking and mountain climbing to some of the world's most beautiful peaks and jungle trips are also available.

It is the ideal place for an active holiday, including ecotourism and extreme sports, and all these activities and more can be organised at a plethora of travel agencies. A quick stroll around town will give a good idea of the best value deals.

If you want more cycling you can arrange a tour to Volcan Cotopaxi (5,897m) and mountain bike down the world's highest active volcano.

For more information on visiting Banos see www.baniosadn.com.ec.

Andy Gale