The Alhambra: Jewel of Granada

The broken towers and paradise gardens of Granada's Alhambra fortress have drawn travellers for centuries to view a masterpiece of Islamic architecture.

The self-confessed romantic traveller Washington Irving called the Alhambra a "testimony to past magnificence and splendour" and the battlements and halls certainly evoke the opulence of the time of the Nasrid sultans.

Only a fragment of the original fortress and palace city remains but the Alcazaba citadel and the Nasridian royal palace attracts over two million visitors every year.

The name is derived from the Arabic Qalat al-Hamra, which means red fortress, and the pinkish stone walls and towers were built in the 13th and 14th centuries.

The 250-year period of the Nasrid dynasty saw economic prosperity and a flourishing of art and culture in Granada, which was the last Moorish kingdom on the Iberian peninsula to hold out against the conquering sovereigns of Castile and Aragon.

Despite the long years of decay, the royal palaces still contain exquisite mosaics and elaborately-carved ceilings that appear like pale stalactites.

Courtyards of cool water reflect arches, columns and facades covered in filigree carving of floral and geometric patterns, as well as inscriptions quoting the Koran and praising the many qualities of Allah.

A poet in the time of the sultans said the gardens of the Alhambra almost compete with the celestial beauty of the moon and the lush greenery and carefully laid out garden 'rooms' add a great deal to the visual impact for visitors.

Behind the palace the gardens of the Generalife stretch up the gently sloping hill to a small palace where fountains play in peaceful courtyards.

The word Generalife is derived from the Arabic Jinnah al'Arif or "garden of the illustrious ones" and the design still upholds the ideals of Islamic gardens.

The overwhelming scent of wisteria drifts down the hill on the warm air and an ascent of the water staircase with its ice-cold liquid flowing down the handrails is a refreshing wake-up.

For panoramic views of the Alhambra, stroll up through the narrow streets to the Mirador de San Nicolas.

This terrace overlooks the old town and you can see the whole sweep of the magnificent Alhambra complex set high on the Sabikah hill and against the backdrop of the Sierra Nevadas.

A tapas-munching bar crawl should be part of any visit to Spain and Bodegas Castenadas on Calle Almiceros has great food and a great atmosphere.

Taste cheeses laced with cardamom or apricot or salty manchego with creamy almonds, as well as the endless variety of cured jamon, and your snack will soon turn into a meal.

For dinner try Restaurante Arrayanes in the heart of the Arab quarter for delicious North African tajines and salads. The surrounding streets have a plethora of Arab-styled shisha bars and eateries.

Book your entrance tickets to the Alhambra up to a year ahead of your visit online for €13 (£10.30). The ticket includes timed entry into the Nasrid palaces.

Daily visitor numbers are limited for this popular attraction and it pays to book a few months beforehand, especially in the high season.

For friendly and affordable accommodation the Oasis hostel has dorm beds for €18 (£14) and double rooms for €40 (£32).

Ryanair flies to Granada's Federico Garcia Lorca airport and regular coaches transfer passengers into the city centre (€3).

The journey from the airport takes around 40 minutes, stopping at the main bus station and at a number of hotels en route.

Natasha von Geldern