Art Nouveau charm of Latvia

Just 17 years on from the fall of Soviet Russia and the emergence of an independent Latvia - on August 19th 1991 - the country has developed into a one of Europe's undiscovered tourist gems.

The focus of the Baltic country rests firmly on the city break attractions of the capital, Riga, which holds around half of Latvia's 2.1 million or so inhabitants – only half of which are ethnically Latvia, with the rest composed of Russians and Poles.

Although presently gaining a reputation as the de rigeur stag/hen party destination for rowdy Brits, the city is more suited to quiet contemplation and reflection than bar room brawls and drinking contests.

Founded by German traders in 12th century, Riga offers a beguiling mix of beautiful art nouveau architecture, winding cobbled streets and the most contemporary of fashionable boutiques and restaurants.

At its heart is the historic Old Town - a Unesco world heritage site for the past decade - which contains the country's key tourist attractions.

Chief among them is the Dome Cathedral - built from 1211 and once home to the world's largest organ - dating from 1844.

At present the monumental structure is a state of semi-disrepair but it is still possible to get sense of the grandeur of this building.

Altered several times during its existence, Gothic themes inform the Basilica while the Baroque Dome Spire provides a further highlight – both of which are still among the finest sights the country has to offer.

The building is magnificently lit by the six remaining stained glass windows – depicting biblical scenes and filling the ancient building with an enticing light.

Entrance costs three lats (£4) and it is well worth a morning's exploration.

The Dome, however, is just one of many architectural delights.

While the city's streets provide enough to occupy even the laziest of architectural dilettantes, Riga Castle and the churches of St Peter and St John are also among its charms.

For the more intrepid traveler, Riga also has a number of shooting galleries, where it is possible to fire Soviet weaponry in a controlled environment.

While it is legal to carry a concealed weapon in Latvia, few of the locals do so – perhaps understanding the threat weapons carry after 50 years under the Soviet muscle.

However, this does not discourage the local residents from engaging in some serious sport.

Regulations are lax and tourists are encouraged to experience a range of different weapons, including the infamous AK47 and the Glock pistol as well as a range of hunting rifles and shotguns.

Prices can be high, at around 25 lats (£30) for just a handful of shots - although tourists are likely to pay a great deal more than locals - but the experience is once in a lifetime and is not to be missed.

Food in Latvia is best described as 'hearty'. Everything comes with meat - usually chicken or pork - with generous accompaniments of vegetables, and usually a great deal of locally brewed beer.

Self-service is the norm throughout the capital, with the Lido chain offering particularly high quality at very reasonable prices.

For a slightly more refined option, many travellers have recommended the Salt 'n' Pepper restaurant – just metres away from the Daugava river.

Hostels and hotels abound, although most can be described as top-end, with prices only marginally lower than some Western capitals during the height of summer. Backpackers will be able to find budget accommodation if they are willing to search.

Recommendations for tourists looking for a low price and a high quality location would include the Argonaut Hostel, which has small, but clean rooms, efficient service, free internet and an air hockey table.

For those looking to explore a little more of the country, just outside of the capital is the town of Sigulda.

Home to just 10,000 inhabitants, the community sits at the entrance to the Gauja Valley, which is littered with abandoned castles and ruins.

Perfect for extended walks through the rugged country, the valley is clearly signposted – and is fitted with an extensive network of bridges and steps for ease of access.

Highlights include a traditional opera music festival, which takes place in an open-air music hall in the local castle's ruins each summer - as well as Gutmanis Cave (the largest cave in Latvia) and Turaida Castle.

For the more daring, the town is also home to one of the world's few bobsled tracks.

Costing just 2.50 lats for a ride in a two-person bob, the track takes just under a minute to complete, but provides a unique and exhilarating experience.

Rides can be arranged on the day, with the track open to tourists on Saturday and Sunday. The Russian and Latvian national teams practice during the week.

Viewers can gain access to the observation tower for just a few pence.

Ryanair flies direct to Riga from London Stansted and Air Baltic flies from London Gatwick.

Chris O'Toole