Canoe safari adventure in New Zealand

Would you like to paddle a canoe down a river surrounded by jungle, the sound of screaming insects and strange bird calls in your ears - like an intrepid explorer to darkest Africa? All this without risking any of the perils faced by David Livingstone and friends: a crocodile-free river, a malaria-free jungle and no likelihood of native tribesmen shooting poisoned darts out of the shadows.

Indulge this fantasy by taking a canoe trip on New Zealand's Whanganui River, following in the paddle strokes of both Maori and European explorers.

This river has always been an important route linking the central plateau of New Zealand's North Island and the Tasman Sea coast.

Riverboat trade only ceased in the 1920s following the development of better roads and the railway.

This is a canoe holiday but the Whanganui has been designated one of New Zealand's popular "Great Walks" network.

It takes three days to travel 145 kilometres from Whakahoro to the landing at Pipiriki, although longer or more leisurely four- and five-day trips can be arranged.

The canoe hire company provides transport from the small town of Ohakune to the launching point and some basic instruction before the adventure holiday begins.

We launch our canoes into the steep-sided river gorge and paddle away with the sun on our backs.

Over thousands of years the Whanganui river has cut slowly through the sandstone landscape and the stream is by turns dark and light, green and brown.

Sometimes it flows clear and you get a sense of the canoe rushing with the water over the stony bed.

A native falcon soars overhead and white-headed cormorants sun themselves, dragon-winged, on the rocks.

In other sections of the river, the water appears to move slowly, the surface becomes a smooth mirror and we paddle in a trance through a blue field edged with forested mountains and white clouds sailing by under the water.

A sudden breath of wind blurs the picture and sends us back into the world above the surface.

The rapids are all very gentle and we quickly gain confidence in handling our "floating island".

Nosing the canoes up winding tributaries, overhung by vines and silent jungle, feels like an adventure in itself.

Streams trickle down through the rocks to join the great river. Water sprays out through the sunshine and falls like a necklace of diamonds.

The surrounding hills are high above the river and we are enclosed by the land and the rich virgin New Zealand forest. This is the heart of the Whanganui National Park.

Before the arrival of the European river traders, the river was the home of the Maori tribe of Te Atihaunui a Paparangi and a series of settlements along its banks were called the "plaited braids of Hinegakau".

The Maori believed that every bend of the river had a Kaitiaki or guardian spirit, which controlled the Mauri or life force of that place.

Each evening it is time to set up camp, unload the copious amounts of food and drink packed into the canoes and settle down by the fire to cook up a feast and relate the day's exploits.

The New Zealand Department of Conservation (DOC) provides well-equipped huts and campsites along the river. There is also a 20-bed bunkroom at a local marae (Maori meeting house) at Tieke Kainga.

Halfway on the second day there is a chance to stretch the legs with a forest walk to the "Bridge to Nowhere".

This enigmatically-named landmark is all that is left of an early 20th century pioneer community. In 1917 the government opened up this steep-sided valley for settlement by servicemen returning from the first world war.

At first the new farmers seemed to be succeeding in their struggle to clear the land but the remoteness and difficulty of access eventually led to the settlement being abandoned.

Now the solid concrete bridge stands isolated in a valley of abandoned dreams. It emerges abruptly from the forest and ends just as suddenly in a path that peters out into nothing.

Looking far down to the cool dark stream, you can see the line of forest re-growth where the giant tree ferns have reclaimed their territory, covering the decaying remnants of homes.

It is a peaceful and beautiful place, sleeping in the sunshine; replete with memories of the families who lived and worked there.

On the last day the biggest rapid on the river must be faced. A couple of canoes in the party capsize as we take turns to attempt the successive waves but this is merely cause for more laughter before we cruise down toward the final landing stage.

Arrange a Whanganui River journey as part of your New Zealand holiday with one of the canoe hire companies in either Ohakune or Whakahoro (three-day), or Taumaranui (five-day).

Companies such as Yeti Tours, Rapid Canoe Hire, Taumaranui Canoe Hire and Wades Landing Outdoors offer guided and unguided packages. They often also hire camping equipment.

Natasha von Geldern