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Intoxicating beauty in Kerala, southern India

Monday, 10 Dec 2007 12:51
Take to the water in Kerala, India (photo: Lucy Allwright)

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Kerala in southern India is one of the most relaxing locations to travel this astounding country.

The region also has an intoxicating beauty, thanks to its winding rivers, lush vegetation and historic harbours.

Ease your way into the trip with a couple of days at Fort Cochin.

When the sky is blue a walk on the seafront is a great way to see all the Chinese fishing nets that leave you feeling as if you have stepped into another time.

In the evening immerse yourself in the drama and colour of a traditional Kathakali storytelling performance.

As with most of Kerala you can stay in a variety of home stays in which a family will provide a room, a wealth of local information and amazing home cooked food on request.

Cochin is the gateway to Kerala's backwaters. This network of waterways stretches some 900km connecting sea and land.

Experience this by taking a trip on a traditional kettuvallam (a kind of rice barge local to Kerala).

These look like mini floating Sydney Opera Houses and you can rent them for just one night or a few days.

They are usually equipped with a driver, a knowledgeable guide and a chef as well as cute bedrooms with en suites.

The backwaters reveal picturesque beauty as you snake your way through palm lined waterways, muse over the precariously balanced villages and houses and an abundance of tiny vessels.

Your guide will show you local plants and industries that have sustained the area for centuries. However, sometimes this may feel a little contrived so spend time talking to the crew on your boat and the clipped tourist spiel should be replaced by a more personal experience.

A journey from Cochin will take you through intensely beautiful landscapes, but if you are looking for a livelier journey, head further south and take a boat from Alleppey or Kollam.

You can charter kettuvallam through the DTPC tourist board or one of the numerous private operators in the area – for the best rates shop around.

Finally, you can end your trip with a beach holiday. For a hassle free trip Kovalam beach has a package tour scene whose expensive hotels can be a steal if you go off-season.

Alternatively Varkarla is more laid-back with sands stretching away from spectacular cliffs and temples just a walk away.

Varkarla is a place to indulge. You can buy some Indian silver and souvenirs, lose all inhibition with an Ayurvedic massage or some reiki healing.

For a really alternative experience take a longer term Ayurvedic course where you detox, unwind and learn about this 2000-year-old theory of life and living.

Finally, watch the dramatic sunset from the cliff top while enjoying the abundance of seafood that characterises south Indian cuisine.

Depending on budget you can travel Kerala cheaply on the variety of government buses, although this can be somewhat hair-raising, or on trains, with the imperative rickshaw journey at the end.

Or you could journey in style and get a car and driver between destinations.

The high-season is around October to March when prices rise but you will be rewarded with clear skies and high temperatures. The monsoon season is from May to August.

Travel here at anytime and you are promised relaxation, beauty and lots to see.

You can fly from major London airports to either Cochin in the north or the capital city Trivandrum in the south.

For more information see Kerala's tourism website or the India tourist board website.

Lucy Allwright

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