Travel blog: Vistas of Table Mountain

Table Mountain from Cape Town

Sunday, 23, Nov 2008 12:00

Richard Aylen is swapping the daily routine of an 8-5 London lifestyle for a 24-7 cross continent trip taking in Africa, south-east Asia and Australasia. From Cape Town to the Cook Islands via Chiang Mai and Christchurch, his trip will take him from the capital of the UK and deep into backpacker territory. This is his fifth blog:

They say that some of the best experiences when travelling are how you get there, not where you end up. Although any journey can be made worthwhile by the most spectacular of endings, the actual experience of travelling can make this even more rewarding.

This can certainly be said of Table Mountain.

Probably South Africa's most famous landmark, the mountain stretches up to the sky and it does not take a genius to see how it was named. Appearing on most post cards from the region, its flat top can be reached by a hike or by a cable car.

I decided to take the hiking option, feeling in the mood to experience the journey before the high of the views that stretch across Cape Town. The hike took me along the route known as the Platteklip Gorge. Taking most hikers about two hours climb, walkers are advised to keep their hands free to grapple with the steep and rocky terrain.

While experienced hikers would not be fazed by the challenge of hiking to the summit at 1,085 metres above sea level, I was slightly apprehensive. Walking in the scorching afternoon heat was no easy task and sun hats, water and a good pair of shoes are obvious essentials when battling the elements.

My journey started on the back of a bicycle which drove me from the bottom cable car station to the beginning of the path for as little as R20 (£1.30). From then on it was up to me. The path was fairly simple to follow, there are not many forks asking which way to turn and although taking a map of the route is advised by the authorities, it was not essential in my case. As I began to move up the mountain, making my way through the shrubs and low trees the views began to reassure me that this was one walk worth taking.

Stretching out across Cape Town's iconic V&A Waterfront and the surrounding harbour with Robben Island in the distance, the views are stunning. Although much depends on the weather - it is very important to call the cable car company before going to the mountain - the chance to look off Africa's coast line and out into the Atlantic Ocean was breathtaking.

While some may argue the best scenes are at the top, the ascent provides a crescendo of vistas building up to the finale at the peak. Passing the occasional Dassie (a small creature that looks like a rabbit but is actually a close living relative of the elephant) or other weary travellers (those going back down are distinctly perkier - a good sign that the top is worth it) was a great way to enjoy a memorable journey.

Reaching the summit was certainly worth the wait and the toil. Flat and wide, the mountain top is the only place to see all Cape Town's natural land marks. Signal Hill and Lion's Head are dwarfed compared to their majestic heights from the ground, while the Twelve Apostles lead in a perfect line to Cape Point. White Horses can be seen tearing off the Atlantic and into the beaches at Camps Bay and Clifton and Robben Island is a distant point off the coast of Table Bay.

Once on the mountain top, visitors can purchase the usual holiday souvenirs and eat lunch in the café while reading up on interesting historical theories about the mountain. Those looking for a dare-devil experience can try their hand at abseiling off the mountain. Not for the faint-hearted, the drop is advertised as the highest commercial abseil in the world and allows a controlled descent of 122 metres off the mountain's edge.

Having hiked up I decided it was time to see the other side of the journey and paid to catch the cable car down. Costing R74 (£5) for a one way ticket for an adult (R145 [£10] for a return) and R50 or R38 for students and children respectively it is good value for money as it is the only way down without another long walk. There is no need to book in advance due to the changeable weather conditions that often force the cable car to close.

After spending some time on the mountain top I bought my ticket and began my descent down the mountain. The cable car, which spins around to provide a circular view, offers a totally different experience form the hike. While not as rewarding - due to its comfort and the fact that it only takes about five minutes - the views were still ever changing and the journey was certainly unique.

But as it reached its end I couldn't help but think that an hour and fifteen minutes of strenuous hiking in the searing heat of Africa's sun was worth every moment of unveiling Cape Town's unrivalled scenery.

Richard Aylen