Travel blog: `Ole Ole` Yonkers Market Cafes
Ancient street markets with Sandra Shevey
Monday, 10, May 2010 04:19
Sandra Shevey, street market historian, walking guide and campaigner is blogging for Travelbite.co.uk about street markets in the UK and across Europe. Here is her eighth blog entry, which sees her head further afield to New York City:
Neither Neil Simon's Lost in Yonkers nor Thornton Wilder's The Matchmaker (of Yonkers) and musicalised as Hello Dolly are a patch on the reinvention of the city due to Latino migration over the past 30 years.
Yonkers is currently 26 per cent Latino according to the 2000 census, with other ethnic groups such as Blacks, Asians and native Americans comprising the remainder of the city's 43 per cent ethnic identity.
When I was growing up, Yonkers was a whiter-than-white enclave of Germans and Dutch, which sported ice-cream parlours, drug store counters, candy shops and ladies tea rooms. There wasn't an ethnic place in sight.
The new Yonkers or Lourdes-on-the-Hudson, as I like to call it, has expunged any trace of Anglo-American identity and replaced it with its own cultural credo. There is a staggering array of Hispanic markets, cafes and restaurants from 15 diverse countries spanning South Broadway from Getty Square to Riverdale.
It is the Latino Miracle Mile (no pun intended) with apostolic shrines and evangelical churches side by side with some of the best Latino cafes this side of Cuba.
El Marinero (156 S. Bdway) is an authentic Ecuadorian restaurant run by a native who came to the States 15 years ago. His clientele is Latino, which is good, as you know the chow is authentic. Supplies come from Ecuador, Central and South Americas.
Soups are popular. If you're plucky, you might plump for bull penis soup. Yes, Virginia, there really is bull penis soup. Otherwise, take the low road and select from a less exotic variety including hen, cow feet, green plantain ball and cat fish soups.
An Italian which I remember from years past, Louie's is now Caridad and Louie's (187 S. Bdway), Louie's having added the Latino influence a few decades ago. It was always a rough spot and it's got even rougher in recent times. The patrons appear high on Tequila and egging for a fight. Watch out!
But make no mistake. Louie's still dishes up some of the best Italian in North America, such as lobster ravioli; cavatelli (small shells resembling hot dog buns and served with chunky sauces) with broccoli, oil and garlic; zita siciliano in tomato sauce topped with eggplant and mozzarella.
The Dominican Republic is represented by two restaurants: Diova (275 S. Bdway) and Panchito's (285 S. Bdway). Panchito's has great tropical fruit shakes; milk and orange; mamey (a rare tropical fruit, creamy and sweet and pulpy and pink); soursop (a delectable fruit combining the taste of strawberry or pineapple with coconut or banana......creamy); papaya; and mango.
These ethnic bistros have none of the ersatz appeal of those of old. I remember the local Chinese in the Fifties. It was America's idea of Chinese, all gay and glitzy. It would never pass muster amongst this lot and in these times.
Renowned for authenticity, Panchito's does terrific pastiles (green banana wraps); meat wrapped in yautia (leaves) and plantain; octopus creole style; and lobster in hot sauce. Desserts include rice pudding (Dominican style); coconut cake; tiramisu; and tres leches.
La Pupusa Loca or The Crazy Pancake is on 287 S. Bdway and specialises in regional El Salvador grub. The eponymous 'pupusa' or pancake of corn or rice is stuffed with cheese, squash, shrimp or spinach.
Peru is represented at Chim Pum Callao (490 S. Bdway) which offers great native fare including stew (topped with eggs and bread); beef tripe; and crab soup. My favourite is the shrimp chowder mixed with eggs, rice, cream and vegetables. Fabulous!
The other natives dishes: jalea (jelly) or fried, lightly breaded fish and tiradito (fillets of fish marinated in lemon juice).
Most unique however on the Latino Strip is La Perla: a grubby cigar shop selling hand-rolled cigars from Cuba (2 Highland Avenue just off S. Bdway 200-300 block).
Here you can buy pukka Havanas processed via 222 stages and which include such pedigrees as Cohiba, Partagas and Montecristo.
My father used to smoke Havana Coronas and I can still see him puffing away in absolute bliss. He died during my trip back and on 21 April 2010. So a contented image of him is something that I'll treasure and which keeps Yonkers in my mind in a good place.
Sandra Shevey
Sandra Shevey runs walking tours around street markets in the UK and USA.
Contact: sandra_shevey@yahoo.com
Copyright Sandra Shevey 2010 All Rights Reserved
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