Things to see and do: city break Marrakech
A city break Marrakech offers lots of fantastic travel experiences
Friday, 04, May 2007 11:56
Marrakech in the spring is beautiful and should be an annual event for every intrepid traveller who wants all the exoticism of the east combined with all the comfort of continental Europe.
A city break in the north African metropolis is doable, affordable and highly recommended, and is a great way of blowing away the winter cobwebs and leaving you feeling refreshed.
The first thing visitors notice when stepping off the plane and into the heat at Marrakech-Menara Airport is the sense of the 70s that still lingers on in the air - a permanent haze floats through the atmosphere and you can almost taste the incense.
As you step off the plane you can spot the snow-capped peaks of the Atlas Mountains, easily mistaken for clouds on first glance, reaching out to touch the bright blue sky.
An airport transfer is highly recommended and guarantees a friendly taxi driver will be on hand at the arrivals gate with a sign bearing your name and the keys to a world-weary cream-colour Mercedes.
The journey allows you to sit back and enjoy the sights - the colours, the lush landscape, the exotic fruit growing at the side of the road - as well as experience the rather dubious driving techniques of the locals.
Drivers tend to drop off visitors into the hustle of the Djemma El'Fna, the market square of Marrakech's old town. Due to the winding alleyways of the medina, taxi drivers stop on the edge of the square and may well order a bystander to take your bags and lead you to the hotel.
Fear not if you are directed down a rather murky back street and towards a little wooden door, as once the door opens paradise is in sight. Many riads - traditional Moroccan town houses - have been converted into hotels and provide visitors with the perfect oasis.
One such guest house is the Hotel Sheherazade. Reasonably priced and situated less than three minutes walk from the Djemma El'Fna, the hotel is the perfect base for a trip to Marrakech and helpful staff are happy to arrange almost anything.
The Djemma El'Fna is the melting pot of Marrakech. Awash with activity at all times of day and night the square is the heart of the city that beats to the sound of several drums and rattles along to the snake charmers' flutes.
Dancers, acrobats, musicians, fortune tellers and even the odd dentist jostle for space in the square. The myth of this being a hotbed of hassle for tourists has long been dispelled and a simple no thank you will send hawkers on their way.
A sensory assault on the body, night-time in the Djemma El'fna is unlike any place on Earth; vendors sell oranges and earthy, spicy escargot and everything from grilled sheeps brains to a more comforting bowl of harrira soup is available at neatly-organised stalls.
Situated in the rabbit warren of alleyways jutting off the square at all angles are the souqs - Marrakech's premier shopping destination. In theory each part of the souqs are dedicated to a certain craft or product - including spices, pottery and rugs - although in reality the narrow passages all merge into one and the best thing to do is keep going; all the tunnels lead back to the Djemm El'fna so getting lost is highly unlikely.
Mint tea will be offered by the majority of stall holders and prices will be dropped if you are prepared to barter.
Highlights to track down on a trip to the souqs include the Souq Submachine (or the Dyer's Souq) where brightly coloured fabrics flutter in the breeze. Finding the olive sellers souq is another joy, as the olives are far juicier than anything that comes in a jar.
The bustle of the square is contrasted with the thoughtful and imposing presence of the Katabouia Mosque, which stands proud above the Djemm E'fna, occasionally adding to the constant din with the call to prayer. Although non-Muslims are not permitted inside the actual mosque building, the grounds are open to all and provide a quite place for contemplation.
Another place away from the crowds is the Jardin Majorelle . For a fixed price a horse and cart driver will take you from the square to the pleasure garden, owned by fashion designer and 70s playboy Yves Saint Lauren.
Built in the 1920s by French artist Jacques Majorelle the botanical garden has been open to the public since 1942 and is home to 15 species of birds unique to North Africa and thousands of rare and beautiful plants.
The garden contrasts perfectly with the cobalt blue deco house (designed by Majorelle), which now houses a gift shop and the Museum of Islamic Art.
Away from the stillness of the garden and back towards the medina is the Baadi Palace, possibly the one regal residence that is a Marrakech must-see. Once paved entirely in gold, the 16th-century abode is now reduced to a mud-brick shell, which remains impressive, and a morning spent wondering the ruins is awe-inspiring.
Of course no city break is complete without some fine dining and Marrakech does not disappoint, from the kitsch to the utterly chic; eating out in Marrakech is a unique experience.
Live musicians accompany set menus of hearty meat tagines and plentiful fruit salads at Dar es-Salaam, which featured in the Hitchcock film The Man Who Knew Too Much. The restaurant also provides a mid-course treat as belly-dancers take to the floor.
For a taste of modern Marrakech the hidden Narwama checks all the boxes; square plates, dark velvet, chrome, sleek waitresses and the best mojito cocktails in the city. A favourite with the hip royal family, Narwama is one of few places in the (theoretically) dry town to openly sell alcohol and serves up Moroccan dishes with a Thai twist.
For flights to Marrakech see www.thomsonfly.com.
Rebecca Amir