Walking holidays in Corsica
The iconic Bavella Needles (photo: Natasha von Geldern)
Friday, 06, Jun 2008 10:53
After a childhood of reading Asterix books I was quite prepared for Corsica to have a unique and rugged character, and also to meet walkers rustling through the famous maquis.
Corsica is a paradise for walking holidays and as well as coastal walks beside the turquoise sea and brushing through the fragrant scrubland, it also boasts at least 20 mountains that top 2,000m.
The Alta Rocca is a popular walking and climbing region in the foothills of the great mountain range that forms the spine of Corsica.
It includes some of the most stunning forest and mountain scenery on the island and a multitude of walking holiday options.
The Zonza-Quenza circuit is a deservedly popular loop walk, with plenty of variety in its easily-graded four-and-a-half hours.
This is essentially a forest walk, which in a very civilised fashion passes through the little mountain village of Quenza, where there are a number of pleasant cafes.
The forests are filled with flowering tree heather and wild lavender. Although we didn't see any wild boar we could see where they'd been - the trackside was often rutted with their foraging activities.
Approaching the village the spectacular granite peaks of Bavella come into view.
After Quenza the trail meanders through woods, farmland and old orchards. The forest here changes from the olive-green Mediterranean oaks to dark, mossy woods lit only by the tiny purple cyclamen that stud the path.
We were accompanied on this middle leg of the walk by a half-grown (read excitable) red setter who refused to return home until we persuaded some walkers coming the other way to lasso him with a walking pole tape.
We also proved that you have to be prepared for anything on a walking holiday - on this easy-graded walk the streams and rivers were up after a couple of days rain and a simple ford became a thigh-deep crossing of the San Antoine river.
On many of the walks in this region you need to watch that you don't stray off-route as this rugged country is criss-crossed with ancient and modern pathways. Just keep looking out for the paint blazes on trees and fenceposts.
Wildflower enthusiasts should prepare to OD on flowers when visiting Corsica in the springtime - from blood-red poppies to tall stalks of maritime lavatera, the landscape is decorated from top to toe.
The next day we visited the Col de Bavella, where walkers gather to park their cars and gawp at the views of the Aiguilles de Bavella - Corsica's most famous granite needles.
A steep climb from here up a gully to the base of la Punta di l'Arghjettu gives walkers the sense of being in the mountains and spectacular views over the Alta Rocca.
This walk is part of a longer (5.5hr) loop walk that encircles the Bavella needles and also forms part of the Grande Randonee alpine route.
All along the rocky paths tiny lizards bask and processional pine caterpillars travel nose-to-tail. I later found out these harmless looking hairy caterpillars can cause an allergic reaction in humans.
Another of the multitude of walks that set off from the Col de Bavella is the two-hour Trou de la Bombe route.
This very easy and pleasant walk through open pine forest carpeted with violas and white and sky blue Grecian windflowers rewards hikers with fantastic views of the Bavella needles that are disproportionate with the effort necessary to walk there.
The last 15 minutes are a bit of a scramble but the views of the mountains reward every step one hundred-fold.
The eponymous hold in the rock often sees clouds boiling up around the zen-like pine trees and the sure-footed can climb up to the strange rock formation to pose in the gateway.
Take the alternative route back via the Bavella par Chapelle, which, as the name suggests, passes a little chapel in the woods and a daisy-strewn lawn. Follow the signs and the red and orange blazes.
South of the Alta Rocca is the forest and lake of L'Ospedale, so-called because malaria victims took refuge here over the hot summer months in the 18th century.
The name of the Piscia da Gallo waterfall is supposedly derogatory of its force but in May it is a thundering cascade.
The walk to the falls from the car park is very easy, apart from the final descent to the foot of the cliffs. Handrails and ropes have been fixed here to assist walkers.
There are gites and some hotel accommodation in Zonza, Levie and the village of Col de Bavella but if you want your own villa with a private pool, barbecue area and terrace overlooking the coast I'd recommend staying down in the Valinco or near Porto Vecchio.
Driving from Propriano to Zonza takes less than an hour on good roads with wonderful scenery and Bavella is only 15 minutes further.
Corsican Places offers self-catering holiday packages in Corsica, including return flights, car hire and a welcome hamper.
A useful guidebook for both long and short walks is Walking in Corsica by Gillian Price, published by Cicerone.
Natasha von Geldern