A day in Bonifacio
The clear blue waters of Corsica (Photo: Corsican Places)
Tuesday, 27, May 2008 11:11
There was a bleating goat tied up outside the gendarmerie in Bonifacio when we arrived.
We never found out why but never mind, we were soon drawn into the holiday atmosphere of this cluster of sun-drenched sandstone buildings surrounding a marina of gleaming white yachts.
With its burnt gold citadel towering above the town and the inviting bars and restaurants lining the harbour, this small town on the south coast of Corsica oozes holiday charm.
Bonifacio makes an appearance in The Odyssey - where Ulysses encountered a population of cannibalistic ogres - but official accounts of the town start in the ninth century when it was founded by the Tuscan Count Bonifacio.
It was conquered by the Genoese at the end of the 12th century, who built up the strong bastions of the citadel we see today and gave the culture and cuisine of the region its Italian flavour.
In the Ville Haute, shops and cafes alternate with mysterious narrow stairways climbing steeply into the dark on every street.
You will also find the ruins of a Franciscan monastery and the 14-th century Eglise Ste-Majeure.
The Bastion de L'Entendard is a tower converted for artillery in the 16th century and now houses a small museum about the history of the citadel.
Stunning views of the town and the coast can be enjoyed from the coastal path leading away from the top of the broad steps (Montee Rastello) by the church of St Erasmus - the patron saint of sailors and fishermen.
Wildflowers form a mosaic of white, pink and brilliant yellow beside the path above the white limestone cliffs, which have been eroded into craggy shapes by the sea and weather.
The air is fragrant with the scent of wild rosemary and juniper and the walk to the lighthouse on Capo Pertusato is a gentle stroll on a well-marked path which takes around one-and-a-half hours.
On a hot day make sure you drop down from the cliff tops to the white sand of St Antoine beach for a swim.
Other highlights include the 800-year-old Grain de Sable (grain of sand) - an enormous limestone rock stack standing out from the coast - as well as the 1528 Chapel of St Roch, built as a memorial to victims of a devastating plague.
You can also see across to Sardinia - only around 12 kilometres away.
Cruising in a small boat through the Lavezzi archipelago is another popular way to spend an afternoon in this part of the world.
Listed as a Unesco World Heritage site, this archipelago of around 100 granite islands and reefs has no hotels, no cafes and no toilets.
They are protected from development by the French government as a marine reserve and the waters surrounding them have a high reputation as a diving holiday destination.
Take enough provisions and sunblock for a stop on the Ile Lavezzi, the uninhabited main island of the archipelago.
Spend a few hours here clambering about on the fantastically-shaped rocky landscape and discovering empty white beaches lapped by clear turquoise water.
A memorial to a shipwreck tragedy in 1855 is on the main island and can be reached by a hiking path.
Two cemeteries were created here for the 700 French soldiers and crew of the Semillante, which sank in a storm on its way to the Crimea.
There are many other beautiful islands and beautiful beaches to cruise past, and boat trips usually include venturing into a sea cave or grotto under the limestone cliffs.
Boat trips can be arranged from the kiosks along the portside in Bonifacio, with various departure times and durations, although they all seem to offer essentially the same routes. The cost ranges from ?17 to ?40 depending on the length of the cruise.
Where to eat:
Le Bonifacio has good value seafood and local specialities (phone 04 95 73 02 26 to book). Or for a quick meal a bit further along the waterfront try the Kissing Pigs bar.
In the Ville Haute the restaurant U Fragnu (next to the hotel Royal) has panoramic views and good Corsican food and pizza. Don't miss the Aubergine Bonifaccio. Phone 04 95 73 51 69 to book.
Where to stay:
Corsican Places offers self-catering holiday packages in Corsica, including return flights, car hire and a welcome hamper. For more information call Corsican Places Reservations on 0845 330 2113 or visit the website.
Natasha von Geldern