Travel blog: Journey up the Mekong River, Laos

The Mekong River through Laos

Thursday, 27, Nov 2008 10:22

Richard Aylen is swapping the daily routine of an 8-5 London lifestyle for a 24-7 cross continent trip taking in Africa, south-east Asia and Australasia. From Cape Town to the Cook Islands via Chiang Mai and Christchurch, his trip will take him from the capital of the UK and deep into backpacker territory. This is his sixth blog:

After spending a number of weeks in Cape Town, it was time to leave with Thailand the next destination on my route.

Flying into Bangkok, I took the decision to head north towards Chiang Mai, before taking a small excursion into nearby Laos.

Laos shares borders with a number of countries in south-east Asia including Vietnam and Cambodia making it a handy destination for anyone exploring the region. Tourists are usually afforded a 30-day visa to Thailand so it can also work as an important break for anyone wishing to stay longer and get a new visa.

From Chiang Mai I decided to take a mini bus trip to the border crossing on the Mekong River. Probably the best known landmark in Laos, the river forms much of the border with Thailand and travelling along it is a perfect way for those entering the country to get a taste of what it has to offer.

I arrived at the border crossing early in the morning with my visa already sorted out. Travellers making the trip from Thailand can use the travel agencies to arrange a visa but it is advisable to do it at the border as queues are inevitable and it is cheaper.

After beating the queues at the border crossing, my transfer to the Mekong began. My choice of transport was to take a two-day slow boat ride that would take me from the border to Louangphrabang in the north of Laos.

The slow boat, which can carry about 100 passengers and crew, was made of wood and sat low in the water as it rolled through the muddy Mekong. Hard wooden seats are the main option available and a soft cushion, which can be purchased for a minimal price before stepping on board, is an essential buy. Those lucky enough to arrive early can ensure they get one of the more comfortable aeroplane seats but these are in short supply and high demand.

Supplies are also advisable as food and drink on board the boat is costly and limited in variety. Having stocked up on a cushion and some local food before beginning my journey I was fully prepared for the long day ahead. Anyone looking to travel fast should not take the slow boat - it does exactly what it claims to do - but the journey is a chance to experience some of the local scenery and make some new travelling friends.

Heavily forested river banks line the Mekong and it is almost easy to imagine the sound of helicopters gliding through the skies like a scene from Platoon. Luckily the slow boat is a good deal more relaxed than a Vietnam War scene and it provided the perfect chance to play some cards with fellow travellers, share tips and stories, update the diary and catch up on some sleep.

The boat leaves the border at about 11:30 and much of the distance is covered in the first day. Stopping to pick up passengers on a few occasions, the boat docked for the night at about 18:00 in the small town of Pakbeng.

As I disembarked for the evening I made my way through the usual scrum of hoteliers trying to sell the qualities of their guest houses and headed to the main street. Pakbeng has no electricity after 22:00 so a romantic candle lit atmosphere was forced on diners in any restaurants that are still open.

An early night was in order a long day travelling and with not much to do in Pakbeng after dark; I headed to bed ready for another day on the boat.

Leaving at 09:00, I grabbed an early breakfast and a takeaway lunch from my guest house and began the final leg of my slow boat trip to Louangphrabang. The second day is equally slow but just as relaxing and although the scenery did not change from its thick green vegetation there was a new and exciting scene around every bend.

I left the slow boat and its friendly crew that evening and grabbed a short tuk-tuk away from the Mekong and into the main town of Louangphrabang. Containing a number of picturesque Buddhist temples, the town is certainly worth a visit. Nightlife in Laos is quite different to its elaborate neighbours but there is no shortage of activities. A 23:30 drinking curfew means anyone looking to enjoy a boozy session is forced to retire early or head to the local bowling alley which stays open until the small hours of the morning.

Those looking for a more relaxed vibe can visit one of the bustling night markets and pick up some of the traditional travelling souvenirs on offer. Anything from art work depicting hazy river scenes in eclectic blue and green paint to scarves, rugs and games can be bought with a good dose of bartering to ensure the 'best price' is always achieved.

I decided to enjoy a Laos barbeque - a speciality of the region - and take in the night market before enjoying several bottles of the local 'Beer Laos'. Enjoying the totally unique experience offered by Laos so far I headed for bed, relaxed and contented after two days gliding down one of Southeast Asia's most picturesque rivers.

Richard Aylen