Bergen city break: food, culture and great views
Take in the views in the Norwegian city of Bergen (photo: Chris Wilson)
Wednesday, 26, Sep 2007 12:59
From the extensive museums and art galleries to the bustling fish market, historic harbour buildings and breathtaking hilltop panoramas, Bergen is a lively city steeped in centuries of tradition.
The city has at various times been home to the northernmost reaches of the Hanseatic League of traders, revered dramatist Henrik Ibsen and the composer and national hero Edvard Grieg, and today is a compact, modern European city.
Bergen shares much in common with other Scandinavian cities, with a relaxed, cosmopolitan feel, particularly in the summer when young and old wander around the harbour, parks and pedestrianised streets, flitting between bars and restaurants.
With some of the same energy as Helsinki and the charm of Reykjavik - albeit on a scale closer to the latter of those two capitals - the city is a great destination for a short break or an extended weekend; travellers looking to see more of Norway's rugged inland can easily base themselves in Bergen for a week, either taking advantage of a range of coach tours or renting a car and seeing it themselves.
No tour of the city is complete without taking in the historic wooden buildings down at the harbour in the old part of the city, Bryggen. This UNESCO protected site was first built on in the 11th century and has been ravaged by periodic fires and an enormous ship explosion in World War Two.
What you see today are authentically restored wooden houses in the traditional Norwegian style, dating from after the great fire of 1702. In keeping with the energetic feel of the rest of the city many of these now host artists' studios and craft shops.
A little further back towards the centre of town is the daily fish market, where you can pick up a wide array of fresh seafood, or perhaps something ready to eat for a spot of lunch. Vacuum packed delicacies are also available to take home, but can you really resist the offer of a fresh oyster in the bright Norwegian sunshine?
The fish market and nearby cafes also offer a relatively more affordable way of feeding yourself, as local prices - in line with Norway's booming economy since the 1980s - seem steep to British travellers. Feed up at your hotel's buffet breakfast and take a light snack for lunch if you want to save some money ahead of your evening meal! And be prepared to spend around £8 a pint for the refreshing local lager, Hansa.
Lovers of the arts and culture are well served by a range of museums and galleries, most of which offer cut price or free entry to holders of the Bergen card. This one or two day pass is well worth picking up from the local tourist information office (near the harbour in the centre) as it also gives you free public transport around the city centre, as well as a return ride up the steep funicular railway to the peak of Mount Fløyen.
The galleries host a range of Edvard Munch's works after a local businessman acquired a substantial proportion of his collection. As a long time home to Ibsen, the city also has a strong theatre tradition, with regular performances - mostly in Norwegian - as well as special events as part of the many arts festivals.
Music lovers can also take in weekly concerts at Grieghallen, named after Bergen's most famous son, home to the internationally renowned Bergen Philharmonic. Grieg's perfectly maintained house Troldhaugen - a short bus ride out of the centre by public transport or with a tour - features a modest museum as well as a concert hall with views of the small wooden hut where this master used to compose.
No trip to Bergen, however, is complete without riding the funicular railway to the top of Mount Fløyen. In a breathtaking seven minutes you are whisked over 300 metres above sea level, where there are stunning views of the city, the nearby hills and the fjords that stretch out into the sea. Take the lowest car for the best views on the way up, and splash out for the à la carte menu at Fløien Folkerestaurant to finish your trip to Bergen with some considerable style.
The food served here reflects local culinary traditions and the finest seasonal Norwegian produce. Before you leave check the time the sun sets and book your table for dinner just before, as the views from the peak are simply staggering. The funicular railway runs until at least 11.00 at night, so there's no worry about a swift, scenic return to your sea-level hotel afterwards.
For more information on visiting Norway see the Norwegian tourist board and for information on coach tours to Bergen see the Coach Tourism Council.
Chris Wilson