The fall of the Berlin Wall

Few cities can match the turbulent history of Berlin; a worn narrative of division, recrimination and eventual reconciliation. A relatively young city – at a mere 800 years old – it is the last century which has come to define the character of the great European metropolis.

Few will need reminding of the events which led to the German Democratic Republic’s (GDR) construction of the Wall which encircled half of Berlin for all those years. Fewer still will be able to forget the jubilant scenes which spread across Berlin when it was finally breached on November 9th 1989 – that historic day.

Twenty years later the leaders of Europe, America and Russia gathered to remember the events which preceded the reunification of a city, a country and, eventually, a continent. Travelbite.co.uk’s Chris O’Toole celebrates alongside those who made history.

Standing, by the Wall…

Even for an event of this magnitude - with its meticulous planning, global guestlist and historic significance – the rain will not stop. It poured down throughout the proceedings but the people of Berlin – along with a sprinkling of interested British and American observers – have seen worse. Must worse. So it was out into the night and toward the Brandenburg Gate on the U-Bahn to celebrate with those with the courage to defy the omnipresent strength of the Soviet Union.

To illustrate and commemorate the rapid sequence of events which eventually led to the people of East Berlin marching into history on that fateful night the city had commissioned 1,000 individual dominoes. Each painted by various countries and institutions – and standing ten feet tall – the sculptures was stacked along the former route of the Wall, with their fall symbolising the collapse of communist rule across Europe. But that, the climax of the show would have to wait.

First there were the speeches. Always the speeches.

We could be heroes…

Standing at the end of Strasse des 17 Juni and peering over the sea of umbrellas we are greeted by the leaders of the world – past and present. The biggest cheers are reserved for American secretary of state Hilary Clinton who delivers a rousing and patriotic oration, praising the strength and determination of those present. Even our own prime minister, Gordon Brown, is warmly received – despite the platitude laden offering. France’s president Nicolas Sarkozy and Germany’s chancellor Angela Merkel seem less popular on the night. Politics played a roll, even during the celebration.

A new classical composition from GDR composer Friedrich Goldmann opened a rousing concert, which also featured pieces from Wagner and Schönberg. However, the highlight for many was Bon Jovi’s rendition of We weren’t born to follow, during which even the rain seemed to momentarily cease. Footage of John Bon Jovi himself in Berlin at the time the Wall fell also offers some explanation of this seemingly random choice of performer.

Then more speeches. Firstly from Polish Solidarity’s Lech Walesa and former Soviet leader Mikhail Gorbatchev – and finally the dominoes. After nearly two hours of carefully choreographed and staged managed performances – not to mention a significant number of glasses of mulled wine - this was a fitting highlight; illustrating the fluidity and speed of events on that night in 1989. An illustration of the opening of the Hungarian border, and the culmination of events in Berlin with the famous unbriefed GDR official who declared new, relaxed, travel arrangements were in effect “immediately”, leading thousands to flock to the checkpoints and demand their exit.

Just for one day…

As the fireworks explode over our heads we follow the crowds along Ebert Strasse toward Potsdamer-platz in search of a nightcap.

This is among the more refined areas of the city, so a beer in one of the glass fronted boutique bars can cost anything up to five or six euros. But slipping into a warm seat – finally out of the rain – justifies the price. This is also a great area to eat, allowing visitors a break from the ubiquitous bratwurst and a chance to indulge something a touch more glamorous. Settling for geschnetzeltes (shredded meat, with rice and spices) we discuss the events of the evening.

Many older Germans, at least those we spoke to in the build up to the event, had decided to stay away from the performance. Having been there twenty years ago many were reluctant to revisit those days in this carefully planned and managed fashion. Perhaps the attendance of Russian leader Dimitri Medwedew also discouraged others. It could just have been the rain. What remained was a noticeably youthful crowd; those who had learned the significance of those events two decades ago and now came to celebrate.

Those that made the trip were greeted with a slice of history. Strolling back homewards, Abion Villa provides one final treat for the evening. Located on the edge of the Tiergarten, the property offers exquisite luxury accommodation to leisure travellers. An outside terrace provides a peaceful location to relax on the banks of the Spree during the summer months, while the hotel’s own yacht – Aida – is also on offer for private hire.

Holidaymakers looking to explore the real Berlin are also welcomed for longer stays at the Villa, with guests sometimes staying for months on end. Given the tranquility, luxury and location of this, one of Berlin’s top hotels, it is not hard to see why.

More Information

Travellers looking to visit the city – where a multitude of world class institutions offer the chance to devolve into history of year round – can reach Berlin in style with RailEurope. Return fares start at £149 for an overnight journey – via Paris – or from £289 for a daytime trip through Brussels and Cologne.

Chris O'Toole