Travel blog: Going Nautical at Calais
Ancient markets with Sandra Shevey
Wednesday, 30, Jun 2010 10:10
Sandra Shevey, street market historian, walking guide and campaigner is blogging for Travelbite.co.uk about street markets in the UK and across Europe. Here is her third blog entry on traditional French markets, this time just across the channel in Calais.
I decide upon visiting the old markets of Calais because I hear the produce in this port town is to die for. Sadly, I arrive too late in the day when the traders have already packed up and gone home for their supper.
Still, the rows and rows of shops which line a respectable High Street that stretches for miles cater for every appetite. There are charcuteries, boulangeries, fromageries, and patisseries. I fortify myself with some unique French 'white ham', some French bread (no pun), cheese and chocolate (some of the best in France).
At one street corner I espy a market kiosk which is still selling and purchase some soft lettuce (from the local farms and which is so big and so fresh you have to shake off the soil); some white asparagus (regional); and some fresh strawberries.
Calais encourages dining al fresco. There are any number of fine parks and gardens in town and I choose one just off the High Street to consume my picnic amidst Arcadian splendour. Rodin got here first - and no wonder. You can still see his sculpture of the local burghers in the elegant town square.
The market or fair which is on over the weekend is a nautical one held in the basin of the old port. It's the third year running and is notable for the folklore projected in native costumes, song and dance, local craft/industry, and food. There is also a fabulous display of old boats - some original, others replication. But all are accessible and you can spend the entire day (if you choose) exploring the old cabins and rabbit warrens inside.
The festival celebrates the town's origins as a small fishing village and whilst it is now the busiest passenger port in France, its origins are indelible in the port's marina for fishing and sailing ships. The nautical fair however is hosted at Carnot Basin for small bulk cargoes.
Calais remained a fishing village until the 10th century. The first warehouse was built in 1196. The town was under English rule from 1347-1558 and actually had representatives in the House of Commons. At one time it was called "the brightest jewel in England's crown" on account of its importance as a gateway for trade.
The port was rebuilt after the Second World War with the new marina added in 1967. The Cross Channel terminal for freight and passengers opened in 1983.
Take a deep breath and smell 'the catch of the day' being grilled over hot coals. The fresh salmon has just come off the boats and is pink and plucky and fine. A large queue amasses. People push and shove. I wait my turn.
Children tug at parent's sleeves. They want to jump aboard the historical ships docked at Bassin Carnot which include three-masted tall ships, traditional fishing boats, and steam tugs. Some date back to the 15th and 16th centuries but these are largely replicas.
The star of the show is Belem (c1898): one of the oldest French ships to have sailed around the world. It was utilised for transport of merchandise between Antilles, Latin America and Europe. Owned in turn by the Duke of Westminster and Lord Guinness it has now been restored and in 1984 was classed as an historical monument.
Calais is still the province of fishermen and don't ever think you're too big or too grand to forget it. The locals from many neighbouring towns and villages in Pas-de-Calais turn out in droves to reclaim the ancient town and imprint their character, folklore and cultural heritage.
Everyone but everyone wears traditional seafaring costume - either the striped French seaman's polo and knotted neck scarf or the fisherman's jacket, cap and knotted tie. Women (for some inexplicable reason) wear heavy coats (on a sizzling June day) over Pas-de-Calais traditional costumes whilst others don headdresses of heavily-starched Calais lace.
There are clomping Clydesdales giving carriage rides, animals in pens to pet and local crafts to buy.
Ice-cream is on sale - two scoops for £1.30. I choose chocolate and vanilla (not very original). It's fabulous! I'm in heaven. Lack of branding means the French avoid names, sell local produce, and keep prices down. Another vendor is frying French Toast using chunky, crusty French bread (and not slices of thin white bread). Nice to see it made the traditional way.
Strains of the accordion playing local shanties follow you everywhere. The sound is more plangent than the British shanties and the renditions are more tribal and cultist than the Brits would allow themselves to be - then and certainly not now.
The lace headdresses fascinate and it is only in conversation that I discover lace is one of the town's major industries and has been for centuries. 78 per cent of the lace is exported to make lingerie and wedding dresses around the world.
Ironically, 'Leavers Machine' was smuggled into France during the Luddite Revolution by Nottingham lace makers who fell upon hard times and emigrated. The English presence is indelible and the Calaisiens still eat Christmas puddings and Welsh rarebit along with snails and pate.
Lace factories prevail whilst there are also factory outlets, shops and even a Lace Museum detailing fashion from 18thc to Belle Epoque. In evidence are historic looms, bobbins, threads, tools as well as samples of vintage costume/textiles.
Lace headdresses appeal to locals who still dress up for celebrations and 'Sunday best' whilst the rest of us plump for more prosaic items such as lace place mats, tablecloths and lingerie.
But fine lace is not the only fine craft. The artisan workshops are profuse. Lovely crafts are relatively cheap and it is hard to say no when things are so tempting. A woodworker from Lille is carving a mermaid sculpture for the prow of a ship. It's taken him three days and he wants 500 Euros. Cheap at the price. But unfortunately the piece has been pre-sold.
Another artisan Gabriel Richir makes things the traditional way and from natural fibres of cord ... mats, rigging for ships ... other odd bits of handicraft. Problem is they're not for sale and are only for exhibition.
"Oh", he says, seeing my dismay, "I do sell small things - knots for key chains ... things like that."
I cram a few items into my handbag for Christmas gifts.
The sun is setting on Calais and in the distance I can hear the foghorn announcing the departure of the ferry for Dover.
A day is not really enough time to enjoy the markets of this fine old port.
Let's say it's a taster and I plan to return for a longer stay.
Sandra Shevey
Sandra Shevey runs walking tours around ancient street markets around the world. Contact: sandra_shevey@yahoo.com
She has also produced a short film about four ancient London markets.
Sandra travelled courtesy of P&O Ferries.
Copyright Sandra Shevey 2010 All Rights Reserved
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