A Green Weekend in Paris

Fancy a weekend away without leaving a carbon footprint the size of the Eiffel Tower? Laura Caplin puts on her green-tinted spectacles to show you how a trip to Paris can be both eco-friendly, luxurious and fun.

The greenest, and easiest way to get to Paris is undoubtedly on the Eurostar, which emits a tenth of the carbon dioxide compared to flying. On top of this, Eurostar have shown a real commitment to the environment through their ‘Tread Lightly’ campaign. Launched in 2007, they have pledged to cut their carbon dioxide emissions by 25% per traveller (a target they have already met, and are now aiming for 35%).

They are also ensuring that all Eurostar journeys are carbon neutral and working on a ten-point masterplan to further reduce their impact on the environment. Key plans include recycling all on-board waste, utilising rainwater, and sourcing on-train food from local suppliers in the UK, France and Belgium.

So sit back in the comfy seats, maybe get a drink or two in the on-board bar and relax guilt-free, safe in the knowledge you’re going to whisked straight to the middle of Paris in just over two hours, with none of the airport hassle of having to wait for your luggage or figure out the best way to get into town.

Once you arrive, you’ll be after somewhere ‘green’ to stay, which can offer eco-credentials without scratchy toilet paper and dingy lighting. Hotel Regent’s Garden offers both glamour and green. It’s run by the Best Western chain but has the intimate feel of a boutique hotel, occupying a glorious private townhouse originally built as a gift by Napoleon III for his physician.

The hotel is one of the few in the city to have been awarded the European ‘eco-label’ for innovations which include using renewable energy sources where possible to run the hotel, specially designed taps to reduce water consumption by a third, using biodegradable cleaning products, low-energy lightbulbs, recycling waste and offering a great fair-trade breakfast.

While Alain Condy and his team take their commitment to the environment seriously, you’ll still feel pampered and spoilt, as each of the 39 bedrooms are stylishly furnished and there’s a fantastic private oriental garden outside, which is a great spot for breakfast.

The best way to see Paris is undoubtedly on foot, and wandering the backstreets is the perfect way to spend the day. Whilst wandering around, keep your eyes out for eco-friendly shops, including Nature et Decouvertes, which is a fun and stylish emporium dedicated to all things green, including some great gifts for garden-lovers.

If you’re after vintage clothing and jewellery, pay a visit to the long-running Marche Aux Puces de Montreuil, a weekend flea market by Porte de Montreuil. Of course, in France the markets are also the best places to pick up delicious food on the go, with trestle tables weighed down by irresistible fresh fruit, vegetables, meat, fish, cheeses and sizzling crepes. Organic markets are growing increasingly popular, and Boulevard Raspail which you’ll find every Sunday in the 6th arrondissement is one of the best and biggest. We defy you to leave empty-handed, or with an empty stomach! Further out, but also worth a visit, is the Batingnolles organic market run on Saturdays in the 8th arrondissement.

No article on ‘green Paris’ would be complete without a mention of the four hundred or so parks and gardens scattered across the city. Take your pick according to your mood – Parc de la Villette is perfect for aimless wandering among the ten themed gardens, head to Jardin des Plantes to brush up on your botany, Parc de Monceau for great people-watching or Parc de Belleville for a spot of morning t’ai chi with the locals.

Paris is doing a brilliant job of resurrecting disused spaces and turning them into public parkland. One of the most famous is the unexpected Promenade Plantee in the Bastille quarter, occupying the site of a disused nineteenth century railway line. Here you can walk high above the bustle of the streets below, enjoying magnificent views across the Parisien rooftops and the heady scents of the fragrant cherry trees and flowers.

Walking is by no the means the only green way to travel in Paris, as their revolutionary ‘Velib’ bike-hire system means that you can easily grab a bike and make use of the cycling lanes which criss-cross the whole city. There are nearly 1,500 Velib points across the city, with over 20,000 bikes in total.

All you need to do is find a set of bikes, register at the multi-lingual terminal using a credit card and off you go. If you planning on using the bikes it’s worth familiarising yourself with the pricing structure in advance (visit the website) and don’t forget to bring your own helmet.

Paris is also a great place for roller-skating, and every week the Rollers and Coquillages skate club organise a 21km mass-skate across the city. It’s free to go along and all ability levels are welcomed. Totally green, good exercise and a great way to make new friends, the skate starts at two o’clock every Sunday afternoon at the Bastille and thousands of people take part each week.

All this walking, cycling and skating will leave you with a hearty appetite, and Paris is a gastronome’s dream. If you’re happy to blow the budget, then a visit to Alain Passard’s L’Arpege is a must, serving up the best vegetarian and vegan food in town. If you haven’t got Euros to spare, there are many more affordable options such as Phyto in Saint Germain, Paris’ first ‘organic bar’ and Grand Appetit on rue de la Cerisaie in the Marias, which offers fantastic, inexpensive vegan fare.

Then, hit the wine-bars for some organic wine (Le Baratin at 3 rue Jouye-Rouve is one of our favourites), visit a jazz bar, club or late-night cafe and soak up the magic of Paris by night.

Laura Caplin

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