India for grown-ups
Udaipur was the setting of the James Bond classic Octopussy
Tuesday, 26, Jun 2007 01:39
India - no longer a land of Delhi belly and dreadlocked gap-year students looking for something real.
With economic growth in the country tipped to be among the strongest in the world over the next decade and an emerging bourgeoisie, the country is beginning to gain a reputation for the ultimate in luxury travel.
With Liz Hurley's recent wedding to Arun Nayar shining a light on Rajasthan - perhaps one of the grandest Indian states - a new breed of traveller could be tempted to the land once described as the jewel in the Empire.
More mature travellers looking for a safe passage to India are advised to organise an airport transfer before leaving the UK and to opt for direct flights that arrive during daylight hours - if only for the breathtaking views and a stress-free voyage.
The easiest way to get to Rajasthan is by train from Delhi and as flights between the UK and the Indian capital are as regular as buses, no one need be put off or put out of pocket.
A stopover in Delhi is easier than heading straight to one of the city's many train stations and can provide some all-important respite.
Luxury hotels are ten a penny in the Delhi, with the Oberoi Maidens a slightly cheaper (but still as grand) option. Less ostentatious than the Hilton and within easy reach of the Red Fort and the stunning Jama Masjid, the colonial-style hotel is the perfect spot to take in the sights of Delhi before heading west.
Trains in India are cheap, fast and generally run on time. Ticket prices vary between third class and the air-conditioned first-class seats. Opting for an air conditioned carriage means a cool journey, and pre-booked tickets guarantee seats on some of the busier routes.
An extra special rail journey can be taken on the Shatabdi Express, which runs from Delhi and into Rajasthan, taking in the major places of interest. Not as regular as other services, it is well worth reserving tickets for this popular train in advance to secure a seat and all the free chai you can consume.
If taking the train is not for you, cars and drivers can be hired from most hotels and tour operators, and for a fixed-price will act as personal chauffeurs for an arranged period of time.
Outside of Delhi and away from the masses of the ever-busy golden triangle route - which includes Agra and Jaipur - are the grand cities of Jaisalmer and Udaipur.
Possibly the two prettiest places in Rajasthan, star treatment can be found in the waterfront hotels of Udaipur - the setting of James Bond classic Octopussy - while in the desert city of Jaisalmer a hidden oasis can be found for a truly reasonable price.
The two regal cities are home to sublime landscapes and ornate palaces, with the famous Lake Palace in Udaipur now home to the fantastic Taj Lake Palace hotel.
However, the best views of Lake Pichola can be found in the family-run havelis dotted along the banks. These converted merchant houses are scattered throughout Rajasthan and can provide a chance to experience Indian family life in stunning surroundings.
A stint at a haveli will include some of the best food eaten on a trip to India, and guests generally have the option of joining the family for dinner, which means pots of home-cooked treats.
Expect discounted rates out of peak seasons and just before the monsoon breaks, when the dry lake impacts the pulling power of waterfront hotels.
Sadly, train journeys to Jaisalmer are virtually non-existent, though luxury coaches or private drivers are easily arranged.
Sitting atop the Great Thar desert like a sandstone mirage, the city is truly breathtaking and the magnificent fort and Jain temple make for memorable sightseeing.
A trip to Jaisalmer would not be complete without an adventure in the desert and the majority of hotels are willing to organise an overnight stay under the stars.
Expect camels, remote villages filled with children and a great sense of the scale of the subcontinent as even the guides loose track of the border with Pakistan.
A land of diversity and contradiction, India has something for everyone, with Rajasthan a strong contender for Kashmir's crown as the country's most beautiful state.
Rebecca Amir