Iceland's mysterious wilderness

Laura Holt takes a 'Saga' trail across the dark side of the moon and discovers a tour that has nothing to do with growing old, but everything to do with Iceland's rich literary history.

Iceland's most prominent musical exports say something fundamental about the nature of this strange lunar landscape and its inhabitants.

With her penchant for the surreal, Bjork is a natural by-product of a culture that celebrates eccentricity. And Sigur Ros - with their ethereal sound and otherworldly lyrics - are a band made unique by Iceland's vast volcanic terrain, where geysers erupt from nowhere and glaciers define the horizon beyond.

Both acted as a sonic guide as I embarked on a Saga tour of Iceland.

Nothing to do with Arthritis

I should first make it clear that following the Icelandic Saga trail has nothing to do with retirement, greying hair or arthritis.

It's an exploration of the country's rich cultural history, relived through written stories which bring to life the journey made by Norwegian Vikings as they first settled in Iceland.

The Sagas are Iceland's equivalent to the Canterbury tales - sometimes bloody, lascivious and utterly entertaining.

As Chaucer constructed a fictitious world based on real events, so the Saga tales bear a close resemblance to the truth. Ruins have been found following descriptions in the Sagas of where the characters settled and how they lived their lives.

The Saga tour takes you through the vast interior wilderness bringing the characters alive by retelling their stories along the way.

"For people who love useless information"

The Icelandic people are an amazing breed. Like the British they warm to eccentric characters - but it's a distinctly quiet kind of eccentricity.

Everyone we meet on our journey is a master in the art of storytelling. Engaging and humourous, they bring the Sagas to a crescendo and draw us all in.

But even better, we discovered Icelanders have a passion for singing. Or spontaneous song, to be more accurate, giving the surreal feeling of being in a musical.

At first we thought it was just the guides putting on a show for our benefit. But after spending time in local restaurants, it became apparent that music is another vital strand of the Icelandic oral tradition that helps keep their history present.

At the church of Reykholt we met one such character. A professor who has dedicated his life's work to building a research centre for the Sagas, or as he calls it: "a place for people who love useless information".

He's a mature gentleman with a whispy white beard, dressed in dapper tweed suit. He tells us about the most well-known author of the Sagas, Snorri Sturluson, as he sniffs snuff from his hand and bursts into vigourous renditions of traditional Icelandic folk songs that have lasted through the ages.

At the nearby Foss Hotel, the manager continues our narrative journey. Over Polar beers he acts out Egil's Saga - one of the first Viking settlers - who axed another boy to death at the age of seven during a friendly game of hockey. Our guide produces a guitar and the evening unravels with more theatrics of the musical kind and heart-warming whisky.

Into the abyss

Iceland holds a certain intrigue for travellers because it's so removed from the realms of normal experience. This becomes evident as we venture into the interior; a world perfectly conveyed through the creative endeavours of Sigur Ros.

Iceland's geothermal wonderland (photo: Laura Holt)

With 65 per cent of the Icelandic population living in the capital Reykjavik, you can drive for hours without seeing another house or person.

All that's out there are thermal springs - which make the country almost entirely energy independent - spouting geysers and vast, ice-capped glaciers.

The landscape changes rapidly, presenting a new feast for the senses every few minutes. The sun breaks through the clouds, casting light on the heavenly vista below and then, suddenly, the wind swirls thunderously and the scene changes again.

Travelling by horseback with a Hestar riding group is a popular way to navigate the terrain, plunging into rivers and stopping for rest every night at warm wooden cabins.

You can also hire snow buggies in winter or quad bikes, making it a dream holiday destination for those who crave adventure.

Beware of the elves

Icelandic building law prohibits construction on land that is believed to be inhabited by elves. This dates back to folk tales following the Sagas and is not related to these earlier tales. But it gives an idea of the mystical nature of the land itself, emphasised by the incandescent Northern Lights, which appear from October.

As your eyes search the black, sweeping mountains they can't help but search for hidden creatures lurking within the caves.

It's not surprising that JRR Tolkien was mesmerised by Iceland. He was so influenced by the Saga tales that he taught his children so speak Icelandic and had their nanny read the tales to them at night. It's said that when the children grew tired of the same stories, Tolkien began adapting them, and so his own fantastical dreamworld was born.

Iceland's fierce protection of the land does not stop with elves, however. The Thingvellir national park is a Unesco-protected site, and a crucial stop along the Saga trail.

Thingvellir National Park (photo: Frank Bradford/Iceland Saga Trail Association)

It's the site of Iceland's first parliament, established in 930 AD until its dissolution in 1750. Under polarized, azure skies rests a valley of crystal waterways, lush green land and lava fields.

Its beauty is given personality as you walk around listening to the history. It was here, during the Reformation period, that the Great Edict ruled those involved in improper sexual acts or incest should be hung or drowned.

A small pool in the rocks is the final resting place of 18 women who engaged in such acts and were tied in a bag and dumped in the water as punishment. Sorcerers or witches also met their end here, burned alive at the stake as a public warning.

The park has miles of varied walks to explore and is free to visit. They also host weekly talks here on Thursdays from scholars who offer their take on the old parliament's history.

The park, like the rest of Iceland, is untouched and ripe for multiple visits. Iceland's more accessible now than it's ever been, due to the depreciation of its economy over the last year.

But, despite its new financial proximity, it remains for travellers the most remote and magical place imaginable.

Laura Holt

Travel to Iceland

We travelled with a brilliant guide called Jon Baldur Thorbjornsson, who owns Isafold Travel. They run tours throughout Iceland, varying from culinary excursions to guided tours in the interior. Get it touch with Jon by emailing jb@isafoldtravel.is.

The best way to arrange this trip is through the Iceland Saga Trail Association. Chairmain Rögnvaldur Guðmundsson will arrange everything. He can be reached at rognv@hi.is.

Foss Hotel, Reykholt - This chain of well kept and affordable hotels across Iceland can be booked for as little as £12GBP pppn. Contact the Reykholt manager directly by emailing reykholt@fosshotels.com.