Active break in Mallorca

A mountainous and uninhabited region (except for the wild goats). No, it's not the Alps or Pyrenees but popular sun, sea and sand destination Mallorca. Natasha von Geldern enjoys a walking holiday and some late October warmth in this Balearic paradise.

The Formentar Peninsular extends like a crooked dragon's back from the northern tip of Mallorca. As well as being a magnet for coachloads of tourists who alight to take photos and then carry on, it's a piece of wild and beautiful land with many tiny coves inaccessible by road.

The base for our walking holiday in Mallorca is Cala de Sant Vicenç, a peaceful village resort within easy reach of the peninsular and of busier resorts such as Port Pollenca.

Cala de Sant Vicenç is near the foothills of the dramatic Tramuntana mountains and the hotel of the same name makes a perfect base for hikers wishing to make daily excursions along a number of well marked mountain paths.

There's a wide variety of options including a walk through the ragged mountains to the magical Lluc Monastery nestled amongst the peaks; as well as a walk that leads to the end of the Formentor Peninsula where the cliffs drop away into the Mediterranean.

Individuals can join group hikes with local guide Rich Strutt who runs Mallorcan Walking Tours or go independent, which is what we did.

Planning our walking holiday with the help of the Walking in Mallorca guidebook from Cicerone , we chose a number of walks starting at or near Cala de Sant Vicenç. The guidebook has recently been extensively revised and updated and, with the addition of a map, was all we needed to set out on our own exploration of Mallorca's wild places.

Getting away from the tourists

Cala Gallaspo is reached down a mule track that descends through tussock and pine forest on a rocky path blotched with bright yellow lichen. Little brown goats leapt about in the boulders above the path, sure-footed and pointy-horned.

It took about an hour to pass through the gorge and reach the white rocky beach - down some broken old steps at the throat of the bay.

There is another beach further along the righthand side - follow the cairns. We picnicked looking out across the turquoise sea.

Fortunately we did this walk in the morning as by 13:00 the coach tours were arriving to take their photos and the car parks at the lookout points were filling up.

WDWF - Guests at Magic Kingdom Park (photo: ©Disney)

Cala Gallaspo (photo: Natasha von Geldern)

To scramble or not to scramble

The guidebook described the area between Ternelles and Cala de Sant Vicenç as mountainous and uninhabited, except for wild goats. There's a great circular walk that takes you to the very modest summit of Mola, starting and finishing in Cala de Sant Vicenç.

You have the choice of the choice of a "normal" route over rough terrain as far as Puig de l'Aguila and then and easy return along the quarry road. Or you can cut half an hour from the four-and-a-half hour journey by undertaking a bit of a rock scramble to gain the ridge of the Serra de Sant Vicenç ridge.

Either way you can expect fine views back towards the bay, the resort and the magnificent cliffs of the Serra del Cavall Bernat.

Eagle Peak

For a shorter excursion from Cala de Sant Vicenç, ascend the small hill of Puig de l'Aguila on a good track that is an old quarry road. The views of the Serra del Cavall Bernat are spectacular.

Take a torch to explore the rock tunnels of an old ammunition store beneath the peak.

If you want to vary your return journey back to Cala de Sant Vicenç, descend the shallow valley on the north side of the Eagle Peak and follow the cairns down.

Active holidays with some relaxation.

The Hotel Cala Sant Vicenç has been accepted by the Consell de Turismo de Mallorca as an affiliated hotel specialist in their official guide for golf, cycling and hiking holidays.

Inclusion in the guide requires a full audit and acknowledges the hotel has the facilities and amenities to make guests very welcome who partake in these particular activities, and that the hotel is well placed for ease of access to active holidays in Mallorca.

Cala de St Vicenç is also a great base for golfers and cyclists, as well as sailing, diving and sea-kayaking. Water sports are easy from the busy resort of Puerto Pollensa - just a ten minute drive away.

This is a smart and very comfortable hotel that doesn't mind walkers coming in with dirty boots. It's also very popular with people who want a relaxed holiday where they can walk to both the beach (200 yards away) and to restaurants and bars.

The hacienda-style hotel is furnished in traditional Mallorcan style and has all the comforts - you don't have to leave the room if you don't want to.

The Cavall Bernat restaurant serves some of the most delicious Mediterranean/Mallorcan food on the island in a stylish restaurant that serves generous portions and has an extensive wine menu.

When to go?

September weather consists of sunny days and balmy evenings and is the perfect time of year to explore an active holiday in Mallorca.

October and November are the "wet season" for Mallorca and the island often experiences storms. However, these tend to be short-lived and we certainly had plenty of beautiful sunshine in late October. We even swam in the sea.

Hardy souls will find settled if cooler weather over the winter; this is still quite a popular time of year for walkers in Mallorca.

Then of course there's springtime in Mallorca - from February onwards, when the almond trees are in blossom, is a good time to enjoy a sunshine walking holiday here.

Really the only time to completely avoid is the heat of summer, which is when the island and its resorts are at their busiest.

Natasha von Geldern

Follow us @travelbite

More information

The Hotel Cala de Sant Vicenç has doubles from ?164 in the spring season.

We hired a little car from Palma airport through Holidayautos.co.uk- part of lastminute.com - and found it very easy to zip around the island on the excellent road network.

If you're looking for a guided walking trip Explore runs eight-day coast to coast walking tours in Mallorca.

Balearic Discovery arranges offers tailor-made trips and holidays designed for those looking for an exclusive and individual experience in Mallorca. Jane and Tony have lived here for years and have a wealth of tips to make your holiday in Mallorca special.