The National Parks of Utah

Monday, 19 October 2009 12:00 AM

Holiday ideas in Utah exploring the national parks

Holiday ideas in Utah exploring the national parks

Famed as the backdrop to countless spaghetti westerns, the US state of Utah has scenery to impress even the most jaded of holidaymakers. From the magnificent sandstone formations at Arches National Park to the intricate, winding routes around Bryce Canyon, the depth and variety of the landscape is staggering.

The best way to explore this underrated destination is to hire a car - preferably a huge American Cadillac - and head out on the Interstate Highways. Here travelbite.co.uk's Chris O'Toole hits the road in search of adventure.

The National Parks of Utah

We awoke before dawn at the Desert Rose. The arid desert sighed around us as we slunk toward the waiting Cadillac fighting off the biting cold. The American Dream - lived so vigorously just yesterday - seemed a world away as we pulled out of Bluff and headed out along Route 163 toward Zion National Park.

With Arches National Park and Navajo Nation - home to Monument Valley - already behind us we thought we had seen the best the state had to offer.

Turns out, we were wrong.

While Arches had taken us to the geological wonder of the Delicate Arch - symbol of the state - and Monument Valley had shown us the iconic thousand-foot Buttes, nothing could have prepared us for the wonders we were still to taste.

Utah deserves its reputation as one of the most geographically astonishing states in the Union.

Monument Valley

As we cruised along the highway, Zion National Park loomed into view - lurking on the horizon like a prehistoric spectre. The first National Park in Utah, the location is filled with towering cliffs - a Mecca for big wall climbers - narrow canyons and mercurial sandstone formations that change colour with the season.

We had come to explore and were not to be disappointed. Sitting in a local bar - yes you can drink in Utah - locals informed us of a 1,200 foot peak in the surrounding mountains called Angels Landing. Offering dramatic views over the surrounding Zion Canyon the two hour journey seemed like an achievable target on our tight schedule.

Taking the shuttle bus - private cars have been banned in Zion for nearly a decade - we reached the Grotto stop, the departure point for the hike. There are not many people around as this is considered one of the more challenging routes at Zion.

An unseasonable drizzle slowed our progress as we tackled the early winding sections of the path, before glorious sunshine broke through as we approached the summit. While only a short climb, the final stages turn hikers into climbers as they clamber over the narrow ledges - sheer drops plummeting away on each side; equally exhilarating and terrifying.

But despite the danger - with several deaths recorded on the climb over the last few years - the views from the top are literally breathtaking. (At some 8,000 feet above sea-level the oxygen is rather thin, so virtually everything is breathtaking). Although this would prove to be a highlight of the trip there was just time for a quick snap of the surrounding canyon before beginning the arduous descent.

The summit at Angels Landing

Even in these few short hours the character of Utah had been defined in my mind; this is rugged but beautiful country, rewarding those willing to invest the energy in tackling the timeless mountains in search of their true spirit.

Heading back to the car we were overcome with a feeling of achievement, as well as relief we had made it back down without incident.

We spent the night in the log cabins of Majestic View Lodge in the nearby town of Springdale. Also operating as a trading post, the location is great for stocking up on supplies before getting back on the open road and is also connected to Zion by the free shuttle service.

Bryce Canyon

Still wide-eyed following our experience in Zion we set out on Interstate Highway 9 to our final destination, Bryce Canyon National Park, at first light.

This park doesn't have the immediate impact of Zion; it keeps its secrets hidden, encouraging visitors to head deep into the natural amphitheatre, and seek out their own unique experience among the cooling atmosphere and hundreds of hoodoos.

Arriving at the park we chose the Navajo Loop to explore; a moderate walk linking Sunrise and Sunset Points. But even the two mile journey sapped our energy. At this height each step can be a torture, but the effort is richly rewarded as the shocking red rock is thrown into stark contrast against the azure sky.

You could lose yourself walking among the geological wonders, offering a real sense of perspective. The ageless mountains which surround the canyon watch over the thousands of guests below, neither hindering of helping their journeys and passing judgment on no one.

Retiring to the comfort of Ruby's Inn - a homely location on the edge of the park - I was left to contemplate the wonder of Utah's landscape.

This is a magnificent country, rugged and deceptively beautiful. The interstate highways criss-cross some of the most picturesque landscapes in America. Flights direct to Las Vegas with British Airways give holidaymakers a chance to be on the road just a few hours after landing. The Beehive State is an ideal destination to take just a small bite of that American road trip dream.

Chris O'Toole

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