Living it up in the Loire Valley

Floating serenely above forests, vineyards and fields, it is easy to see why the Loire Valley is known as the 'Garden of France'.

Drifting quietly along, a hot air balloon flight is a unique way to experience this historic corner of France, although those of a nervous disposition may find themselves gripping the sides quite tightly.

Vertigo aside, the views are amazing and once on firm ground a champagne breakfast awaits, with a certificate for the brave aeronauts.

The trip, courtesy of Balloon Revolution was on the recommendation of my hosts at Chateau de la Barre in Conflans Sur Anille.

The chateau offers guests the best of this region. Rather than simply visiting the many historic houses of the Loire, Chateau de la Barre offers a chance to stay in one - and feel like an aristocrat for the weekend.

Dating back to medieval times - it even has its own moat - the chateau was extended significantly in the 18th century and has been elegantly restored in this style. Most of the furniture is antique, although concessions to comfort have been made.

But the chateau is not a museum - it is the home of the Count and Countess de Vassnay, or Guy and Marnie as they are less formally known.

Marnie and Guy know all the best restaurants, chateaux and gardens to visit to help you make the most of your trip.

After joining the couple for drinks, a four-course candlelit dinner awaits in the chateau's grand dining room.

Marnie and Guy pride themselves on caring for their guests and the experience is more like visiting friends than a luxury hotel.

This requires a certain amount of sensitivity from guests. None of the rooms have locks on (the doors are antique) and the furniture is also antique, so irreplaceable in the case of damage.

It is a mark of trust that Guy and Marnie have filled the rooms with these pieces, rather than locking them away, but those looking for typical luxury hotel trappings like room service will not find it here.

The relaxed atmosphere and refined surroundings make it the perfect hideaway for couples. It is also possible to book the chateau as a group and is ideal for a party of up to 18 people.

Once you have settled into the aristocratic lifestyle, you need to find suitable transportation to tour the region in style. Driving around the French countryside in a vintage Citroen certainly meets this criteria, and can either be rented from Vintage Roads as self-drive or with a chauffeur.

Nearby Le Mans is renowned for its 24-hour race but also has a beautiful old town that has been featured in films such as the Man in the Iron Mask and The Three Musketeers.

But the biggest attraction of the Loire Valley is the chateaux. The area was loved by the French nobility and there are around 300 in the region.

Many are open to the public and have beautiful gardens to visit, including Chenonceau near Amboise, which is built over the river and also has a 17th century maze.

Chenonceau is understandably very popular with tourists, which makes is busy in the summer months. But a quirky alternative can be found at the Chateau du Clos Luce, Leonardo da Vinci's house.

Invited to live in France by King Francois I, Leonardo settled at Clos Luce in 1516 and the house is now a museum honouring his life and creativity.

Many of his inventions have been brought to life in the house and in the gardens, including an armoured tank and paddleboats.

For a taste of the Renaissance, visit Auberge du Prieure, where chef and 'historical cooking consultant' Sir Sausin serves typical cuisine of the period.

To see how the other half lived, take a trip to Troo. The residents of this town have for centuries been making good use of the caves, which are conveniently cool in the summer, warm in the winter and in turbulent times a refuge.

These are still used as homes and there are even cosy guesthouses where you can stay and be a trogladyte for a night - if you get tired of being an aristocrat.

To stay at Chateau de la Barre, see the French Connections website (property ID 5244), which offers holiday rentals, gites and hotels in France.

Sarah Routledge