Sights & sounds of America's Pacific Northwest, in Seattle

Thursday, 23 October 2008 12:00 AM

Scenic skyline of Seattle

Scenic skyline of Seattle

As rich and diverse a place as it is, ask anyone in Britain what they know about Seattle and most people will be stumped. On exploring this undeniably wonderful city, home to some 600,000 people, realising that it has a huge amount to offer shouldn't take very long.

Sitting in the Pacific Northwest, an hour or two south of the Canadian border, Seattle sits at the foot of the Olympic Mountains, their perennially snow-capped peaks looming wistfully to the west.

Pike Place Market is Seattle's heartbeat. In trading hours the area is alive with stallholders hawking their wares, from fresh pasta to beautiful flowers, with each offering their own imaginative sales pitch. The most entertaining is undoubtedly the fish stall opposite the main entrance: its custodians perform impromptu shanties and toss fish around the place all day long, much to the delight of the gathered onlookers.



Pike Place Market

Visit at the right time of year and as the season changes from spring into summer a beautiful floating stream of pink cherry blossom from the many trees which line the avenues adjacent to the market floats along in the breeze. Then after nightfall, the neon signs flood the area in an unnatural, but nonetheless beautiful light - the red glow warming the otherwise windy streets.

In full knowledge that a city isn't really a city until it has a building designed by Frank Gehry, 2004 saw the unveiling of the organic, muscular forms of the Experience Music Project, which showcases musical memorabilia from all over the world. It holds far too many artefacts to mention, but if it has one must-see item then an example of Jimi Hendrix's few surviving guitars is it.

About a mile or so outside downtown Seattle sits the arty neighbourhood of Fremont. Over the years left-leaning hipsters, artists and poets have flocked here in search of good times and fresh falafel. Within a few minutes you'll find vintage stores and independent coffee houses aplenty and for such a relatively small area there's a lot to see. A 20-foot concrete troll living under a bridge devouring a small car is an example of the little nuggets of fun and creativity dotted all over the area; an imposing statue of former Soviet leader Lenin presiding over a major intersection is another.



Like any city, Seattle has its underbelly. Pioneers Square is the historic heart of the old town and was originally built some ten to 15 feet lower than where the streets now lie. Those wanting to explore this hidden subterranean realm should take the Underground Tour where for a small fee one of the denizens of this forgotten world will guide you round its dusty streets and abandoned shop fronts, regaling you with stories about the city's former life, some of which might actually be true.
Dominating the skyline is the world-famous Space Needle, soaring high above the city below and casting an impressive shadow. The observation platform at its summit offers views which stand up to and perhaps even surpass those available from the top of the Eiffel Tower, the Empire State Building, et al. At dusk, the illumination of the city and the neighbouring bay is just breath-taking.

For those looking to explore the city, there are also a myriad of places to stay - dotted in and around the main attractions. For example, the Hotel Vintage Park offers 126 rooms, all named after a state winery or vineyard, with a complimentary evening wine reception by the fireplace in the lobby each evening. And for those with an interest in pop culture, the Edgewater Hotel - located on the Elliot Bay waterfront - was where the Beatles stayed when they visited the city on their first American tour more than 40 years ago.

Seattle truly is an astonishing place. For every diversion listed here there are another hundred different experiences waiting to be uncovered. At any time of year the city has so much to offer and the friendly locals will quite often be the ones to help you find what you're looking for. Seattle is somewhere that stays with you and it won't be long after your first visit before you're planning a return trip.

For more information on visiting Seattle and Washington State, take a look at the Washington State or Seattle tourism websites.

James Ranger

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