Gulf of Naples; Procida, Ischia and Capri
Wednesday, 22 October 2008 12:00 AM
Fishing in the Bay of Naples
While the Gulf of Naples has been making headlines for all the wrong reasons of late, the area - specifically the islands of Procida, Ischia and Capri - remains one of the most important tourist destinations in Italy, as well as the wider Mediterranean.
The film Gomorra - which scooped the Grand Prix at Cannes Film Festival earlier this year - presents a dramatic, not to mention violent, interpretation of contemporary criminal activity in the region, largely driven by endemic poverty.
This view of the Bay of Naples and surrounding locale, coupled to newspaper headlines late last year showing piles of rubbish piled on the streets of the city - with possible mafiosi Camorra involvement - did nothing to help the region's international reputation.
However, these troubled days are now fading in the memory of local inhabitants, with Naples, and its tourist driven economy, seeking to rehabilitate itself in the eyes of the world.
Ischia
Perhaps the best known of the three islands in the region is Ischia which, while possessing a range of attractions in its own right, also doubles as an ideal base for the exploration of its two smaller neighbours.
The island - which was historically known as Pitecusae - has been colonised by the Greeks, Syracusans, Romans, Saracens, Turks, and Aragonese during its long history. This has left a myriad of historical monuments, which are dotted across the island's beautiful landscape.
Among the most impressive is the Castello Aragonese - a castle, located on a small island, which was built by Alfonso D'Aragona in 1441 to protect Ischia from pirates.
However, it is the therapeutic hot-spring waters flowing through the local spas that are the real draw of the island.
Dating back to the ancient Romans - specifically naturalist Pliny the Elder and geographer Strambone - the warm, volcanic waters of Ischia have been attributed a healing quality - filled with natural exfoliation, detergent and antiseptic qualities.
A full range of activities is on offer at the island's innumerable spas, including anthrotherapy, physiotherapy and balneotherapy. Fangotherapy - treatment with natural volcanic mud - is also popular on the island, due to its unique climate.
Among the most popular spas is the Park Hotel Miramare - which also bathers to relax in numerous pools at up to 40 degrees centigrade and also has a nudist spa for the more adventurous.
Finally, the 'Jewel of the Island' can be found at the Gardens of La Mortella - a wonderful botanic garden maintained by Lady Walton, wife of the late British composer Sir William Walton.
As well as featuring a collection of flora from around the world, the gardens also offer three different concert seasons during the year. During the spring and autumn months chamber music recitals are held at weekends in an indoor recital room, while the summer sees Festival of Youth Orchestra symphony concerts take place a the Greek Theatre on Thursday evenings.
Procida
The smallest of the three islands, Procida offers a perfect destination for a daytrip from the larger islands of Capri and Ischia. No hotel on the island has more than fifteen rooms, and it is, as yet, unaccustomed to mass tourism.
As such it can be difficult to find suitable accommodation, and a visit to its sanguine atmosphere by ferry is highly recommended.
Its nature grants the location a sedate charm all of its own, with a peaceful way of life - dominated by the local fishing fleet - dictating the ebb and flow of the island. Locals go about their lives as they have done for decades, allowing visitors a glimpse of Italy at its most authentic.
The Abbazia S. Michele, a church dating back as far as 1690 and filled with Saxon artifacts dating from their capture of the island is worth a visit. Terra Murata, a fortified district perched at the highest point of the island also allows guests to explore the narrow streets and bustling markets.
Beaches, including those at Chiaia and Chiaiolella, also offer a chance to relax as well as spectacular views across the bay.
For those looking for fine dining on the island, Hotel La Vigna offers a wonderful and unique location, set in a luxuriant vineyard atop a sea cliff.
The island also holds a claim to fame as the location for the film, The Postman.
Capri
Finally Capri, the most glamorous of the three islands.
Its busy side streets and bustling boulevards are frenetic and cosmopolitan; home to Roger Moore, Christiano Ronaldo, Elton John and Sylvester Stallone in the past few months alone. Both Anacapri and the town of Capri itself offer visitors the chance to explore streets filled with fine restaurants and exclusive boutiques, attracting patrons from across Europe.
While not easy on the wallet, the location is the epitome of Italian glamour and captures a certain decadence not found elsewhere in Europe.
However, should the island get too much, the Gardens of Augustus, just a few minutes' walk from the Piazzetta in Anacapri, offer respite from the hustle and bustle of island life.
Built between 1900 and 1903 and once visited by Vladimir Lenin and Maxim Gorky (a resident on the island at the time), the gardens were once reached by a zigzagging road which winds its way up the adjacent mountain. However, the verdant slopes can now be reached from the town centre in a few moments, offering access to a different world.
Among the most famous sites on the island is La Grotta Azzurra (the Blue Grotto) - a 60-metre-long, 25-metre-wide cavity cut into the rocks surrounding the island. The location captures sunlight, creating a surreal transparent water world.
The Punta Carena and Faro (the second most important and powerful lighthouse in Italy) is also worth a visit, perched on the furthest westward point of the island.
Getting there, and where to stay
For those looking to stay on the island of Ischia the Hotel Regina Isabella offers a luxurious possibility - with 128 rooms, including 27 Luxury Accommodations - all with air-conditioning, satellite radio and television.
Over on Capri, the Hotel La Residenza offers a slightly cheaper alternative, offering 90 rooms equipped with the most modern comforts, as well as six deluxe rooms, and three superior rooms. It is also located in the centre of island's social scene, surrounded by boutiques and restaurants.
To get to the islands of Procida, Ischia and Capri, easyJet and British Airways both offer regular departures from Heathrow and other British destinations, with frequent transfers between the islands available by local ferry.
Chris O'Toole



