Coimbra

Thursday, 25, Feb 2010 11:03

The onetime capital of Portugal, Coimbra boasts Portugal's oldest and widely venerated university, set in a captivating medieval city. The University of Coimbra, or Velha Universidade, was established in 1290 but moved between Coimbra and Lisbon before settling permanently in Coimbra in 1537.

Today, it is one of the oldest and most prestigious universities in all of Europe. Its 16th-18th century buildings provide most of the city's major monuments. Passing through the Porta Pérrea into the heart of campus, the imposing Baroque clock tower and statue of João III sit in the courtyard, surrounded by the colorful, woven ornate glory of university chapel Capela de São Miguel and magnificent portrait gallery of the Sala Dos Capelos.

Outclassing even these historic treasures is the university library Biblioteca Geral da Universidade, home to more than a million tomes lining its lacquered shelves in rooms bursting in richly ornate designs, high frescoed ceilings, colorful marble floors and ivory and rosewood tables coming straight from the delirium of some bizarre Baroque fantasy.

Weaving through the tangled web of medieval city streets outside the university, down the slopes of the hilly north bank of the Rio Mondego, the Sé Velha, or Old Cathedral of Coimbra, stands at the center of the city proper. Heralding from the 13th century, the cathedral is the only intact Portuguese Romanesque cathedral, and is well worth a visit for its towering fortress-like walls and the intricate structure of its regal bulk.

The Baixa, or lower town, at the foot of the hill houses the principal shopping area of the city. Students inject frivolity and vigor into the town, particularly during the academic year and especially during the Queima das Fitas, the celebration of the end of finals in May.