Whisky, walking and wild deer on the Isle of Jura

Jura's name is believed to come from the Old Norse meaning 'Deer Island', a description that is still apt as red and roe deer outnumber the population of 200 by at least 25 to one.

Although there is little evidence of them, the Vikings must have been on Jura until driven out in the 12th century by Somerled, whose descendants became the MacDonalds and Lords of the Isles.

In the early 17th century they fell out of favour with the Scottish Crown and most of their land on Jura was granted to the Campbells of Argyll, who stayed for 300 years.

The last Campbell left in 1938 and the island's 90,000 acres (36,422 hectares) are now divided between private estates.

The Isle of Jura's single road links many of the attractions. About seven kilometres along the road from the ferry is Jura House, built by the Campbells in 1812 and known for its walled garden.

The garden was designed as a Victorian kitchen garden, with boxwood hedges, a rose garden, vegetables and fruit trees and now also has an extensive range of Australian and New Zealand plants which flourish in the frost-free climate.

There is an attractive walk circular walk through the grounds of the estate as well as a scenic walk along the cliffs.

The longer of the two walks along the cliff-top to Poll a'Cheò ('The Misty Pool') will take you to Jura's only example of a Neolithic chambered cairn, dating from around 2000 BC. There is also a Bronze Age burial cairn nearby. Scuff your feet on the beach at the southern tip of the island and you will hear the sand 'sing'.

The main village of Craighouse has a hotel, shop, Post Office, tearoom, village hall, and the island's sole whiskey distillery, the birthplace of Isle of Jura Malt.

Whisky has been distilled here since 1810, although the present distillery was built and enlarged between the late 1950s and 1970s. Isle of Jura Malt is ranked tenth in the world market, not bad for a small island distillery employing only a dozen people. Tours can be arranged through the Isle of Jura Distillery.

There are a number of Iron Age forts on Jura, but the most spectacular is that at An Dunan, on Lowlandman's Bay. The remains of what is believed to be a Viking drydock are close by. The bay used to be a fishing boat anchorage. It is now a favourite haunt for basking seals.

The road follows a coastline north giving wonderful views seaward and inland to the bold hills, a draw for walkers. The A846 road ends above little Lussa Bay and becomes an even narrower track until a mile beyond Lealt, where a chain prevents vehicles going further.

You can park here and go the remaining seven miles to the northern tip overlooking the Gulf of Corryvreckan and its notorious whirlpool.

On the way you will pass the stone farmhouse at Barnhill, which is where Eric Blair - better known as George Orwell - wrote his famous novel 1984.

The renowned whirlpool boils when currents of up to ten knots rush through the strait between Jura and Scarb from opposite directions and meet over an underwater pinnacle.

The whirlpool is best seen on a rising tide when there is a strong wind from the west. At its peak, its roar can be heard up to 12 miles away.

Holidaymakers interested in the island's wildlife can see several rare and very rare plant species.

There are alpine varieties on the mountain slopes, wild fuschia flourishes, and palm trees grow in the hotel grounds at Craighouse.

The last census recorded more than 5,000 red deer. When you leave the ferry at Feolin you might see some grazing on seaweed along the shoreline, and it is said there is a pair of otters for every three miles of coastline.

There are upwards of 100 species of birds, with everything from blackcock, grouse and snipe to the golden eagle inland, and practically every known variety of seabird on the shore, making Jura a haven for twitchers. Small wild goats, supposedly descendants of those from Spanish Armada ships wrecked here in 1588, abound on the uninhabited west coast, which they share with Atlantic grey seals.

You can enjoy many miles of hill, moor and coastal walking on the Isle of Jura, though there are few well-defined paths, but plenty of deer trails you can follow. Expect rough going. For the climber, the three conical quartzite mountains known as the Paps of Jura offer several challenging climbs.

There are also fairly easy routes for walkers up all three of the mountains - Beinn a'Chaolais ('The Mountain of Sound'), Beinn an Oi ('The Mountain of Gold'), and Beinn Shiantaidh ('The Sacred Mountain'). A traverse of the three peaks can conveniently be undertaken from Craighouse.

Another route starts at Inver, to the north of the Feolin landing. Strong boots are advisable as the upper slopes are mainly scree and large lumps of quartzite.

On a clear day there are breathtaking views of many Hebridean islands and if it is exceptionally clear you might from the summit of Beinn an Oir make out the Isle of Man, well over 50 miles away, as well as the distant coast of Ireland.

The peaks of the Paps, together with four other lesser peaks form part of the route for the Bens of Jura Fell race, held each year at the end of May - considered to be one of the toughest fell races in Britain.

A popular outing, known as the Evans' Walk, follows an out-and-back path from the main A846 road above Lowlandman's Bay across the island to Glenbatrick, just over five miles away. The west coast is not otherwise easy to reach on foot. It is a wild coastline of cave, sandy covers, arches, stacks and miles of raised beaches.

Holidaymakers should note between July 1st and February 1st is the legal season for deer culling, which takes place to control their population. No shooting takes place on Sundays. If you are walking or otherwise moving about off-road on the island during this period you should be aware of when and where stalking is taking place by checking with the estates of Ardfin, Ardlussa, Forest, Inver, Ruantallain and Tarbert.

This is an edited extract from Skye & the Western Isles by James and Deborah Penrith, available from www.crimsonpublishing.co.uk