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Newcastle food festival

Tuesday, 01 Apr 2008 13:45
Foodie short break near Newcastle

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The 2008 EU capital of culture may have been awarded a little further south, but this distinction remains hotly contested on the Tyne. An impressively redeveloped Gateshead waterfront and a reliably rowdy nightlife may attract much of the attention in Newcastle, but it is in quieter parts of the city that some of the most exciting changes have happened in recent years.

To the north of the city centre - on the edge of green and affluent suburbs - lies Jesmond Dene House, a converted mansion offering 40 bedrooms and relaxed fine dining.

The wooded setting is an understandably popular choice for wedding parties, but from the last Sunday in April this listed building will be wholly overrun with food enthusiasts.

Hotel director Terry Laybourne, who received the north-east's first ever Michelin star in the early 1990s, has helped draw an impressive crowd from across the culinary world - from internationally renowned chefs to winemakers and chocolate experts.

Highlights of the food festival week include the Ritz afternoon tea and a five-course dinner cooked by some of the finest female chefs in the world.

The week kicks off with a day of fine produce - a popular farmers' market lunch on Sunday afternoon, followed by an evening meal that displays the considerable French culinary heritage of the hotel's new head chef Pierre Rigothier. His skills have been honed in two Michelin-starred Paris restaurants.

Monday sees lunchtime and evening wine tastings, led by Francesca Planeta from the Sicilian wine producer Planeta; in the evening the wines will be paired with impressive Sicilian cooking created by Planeta's own head chef.

Tuesday lunchtime sees a very special treat for north-east food lovers: Jesmond Dene House's own Terry Laybourne will be celebrating 20 years since he opened his first restaurant 21 Queen Street with a food and wine matching event.

Guests will enjoy a demonstration from Terry and one of his wine merchants followed by lunch - all themed around 21 fantastic food and wine combinations.

One of modern Indian cookery's leading lights, Sanjay Dwivedi, takes centre stage for a chef's dinner on the Tuesday night, followed by a cookery demonstration and lunch on the Wednesday.

Sanjay will show how he has, alongside the Great British Menu's Atul Kochhar, helped to successfully establish an adventurous new style of Indian cuisine as multi-course fine dining.

Wednesday night will undoubtedly be one of the main attractions, as Michael Caines hosts an evening dinner.

The popular chef - who runs both Gidleigh Park and the stylish restaurants in the ABode hotel chain - has similar events in his hotels, which are invariably booked to capacity.

However, not to be outdone, the Friday night black tie dinner features some extremely prominent female chefs, including Skye Gyngell of Petersham Nurseries and Claire Clark, the pastry chef at Thomas Keller's dauntingly perfect French Laundry in California.

Given the extreme difficulties of booking at - not to mention travelling to - one of the finest restaurants in the world, this is not an opportunity to be missed lightly.

Saturday sees festival activities begin to draw to a close in style, with the Ritz's executive chef John Williams serving his hotel's famed champagne afternoon tea, set to relaxing harp music in Jesmond Dene House's Great Hall.

And then the final dinner on Sunday evening will be a real treat for fans of finely sourced, regional British cooking.

Nigel Haworth, another chef to feature in this year's Great British Menu, has held a Michelin star for over a decade and his cooking at Northcote Manor is held in high esteem for its wholehearted commitment to serving the finest local produce.

His guest dinner will, unsurprisingly, be a celebration of Lancashire food.

Other events throughout the week include a vegetarian tasting menu prepared by Paul Gayler from London's Lanesborough hotel, a classic Hyde Park Corner institution, as well as a chocolate demonstration and lunch run by Mayfair's award-winning William Curley and Sara Jayne Stanes, founder of the Academy of Chocolate.

Newcastle's Jesmond Dene House food festival runs from April 27th to May 5th.

Prices for the events range from around £30 up to £150 for the female chefs' dinner.

A few of the stylishly comfortable rooms at Jesmond Dene House itself may still be available, but failing this Malmaison is a short cab ride from the festival and offers a luxurious central base for exploring the city, while the Carlton and New Kent hotels offer affordable accommodation within walking distance of the festival on the lively Osborne Road.

For more information and booking please visit the Jesmond Dene House website.

Chris Wilson

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