Adventure holiday in Colombia

The trek through pristine cloud forest to Colombia's Ciudad Perdida (literally the Lost City), is a truly unforgettable experience that leaves you feeling like you've just stepped into an Indiana Jones movie.

Constructed around 800 AD by the Tairona civilization, Ciudad Perdida was one of the greatest pre-Hispanic cities found in the Americas.

Having all but disappeared under lush tropical vegetation, the city was not rediscovered until 1972 when tomb robbers accidentally stumbled upon it.

Tucked amid the rugged mountains of the Sierra Nevada in Colombia, far away from any human settlements or access roads, Ciudad Perdida is only reachable by a six day return trek with an organised tour.

The saying "the journey is just as important as the destination" certainly rings true for this adventure holiday. The trek leads you through spectacular mountain ranges carpeted in trees laden with hanging vines. If you are lucky you may see giant condors soaring in the heavens.

Due to the daily afternoon downpours and the sticky humidity, everything is so damp and green, it almost feels like the moss is going to start growing on your skin.

Far from being a walk in the park, this trek is full of challenges. Some paths require you to almost swim through thick mud. At one point our guide's mule nearly sank up to its eyeballs in the brown sludge.

Many river crossings also require team work. The water level of one river rose so quickly after heavy rain that it became impassable and threatened to destroy a hut perched on the shore. Luckily we had already crossed safely but it was only just in time.

Sometimes the extent of the challenge is entirely up to you – the brave or foolhardy can take a leap of faith and swing over a cliff on a hanging vine that feels as strong as iron.

Your guide will introduce you to the local indigenous tribe the Kogi Indians as you wander through their backyard. The Kogis are descendants of the Tairona people and still live very traditional lifestyles.

They are almost entirely dependant on their environment in the Sierra Nevada, living in small circular huts with clay walls and cone-shaped, palm-thatched roofs.

We had to wonder: "Do these people actually still exist?" as we passed Kogi sitting on the ground weaving a bag or looking curiously at the foreigners, their cheeks bulging with the coca leaves they chew.

The growing of coca leaves, incidentally the main raw ingredient for the production of cocaine, is illegal in Colombia. But the Kogis are permitted to grow leaves for chewing as they have done for generations.

If you show any interest in having a taste they will be sure to oblige with a friendly smile. Don't get your hopes up though - coca leaves do not have psychedelic side effects.

Despite wielding three-foot long machetes, the barely three-foot tall Kogi children still look adorable draped in simple white calico-like fabric and brightly coloured beaded necklaces.

They easily walk past us up the hill in their bare feet, carting a load strapped across their heads.

After ravenously devouring a meal cooked over an open fire, evening hours are spent playing cards in the flickering candlelight and discussing the day's hardships and triumphs with the soothing sounds of the jungle for a backing track.

Arriving at the gateway to the lost city on the third trekking day the sense of great achievement is quickly overcome by the prospect of climbing the 1,200 step staircase.

The entrance of the staircase rises steeply out of an impressive river and is almost invisible with its mossy camouflage. It's no wonder that the city eluded discovery by the Spanish conquistadors and remained hidden for the last four centuries.

The city now consists of a series of 169 stone terraces, tiled roads and circular plazas, all carved into the mountainside. These terraces previously served as foundations for houses that probably looked similar to the Kogi huts.

From the vantage point of the higher terraces the impact of the city and its surrounds is breathtaking.

Unlike Peru's Machu Picchu, with its droves of tourists jumping off buses and its clean almost sterile feel, Ciudad Perdida rewards your efforts with absolute serenity. Except for the odd Colombian soldier wielding an AK-47, the city is empty.

Draped in mist, with its overgrown appearance, Ciudad Perdida looks as though it is still battling the jungle for survival.

Don't be intimidated by the presence of the Colombian military. We quickly realised that the skinny, beardless youths are barely out of school and very friendly.

With not much else to do but polish their guns, the soldiers seem desperate for any source of entertainment, such as posing in countless photos with tourists and even letting you brandish their guns in Rambo-like poses for the camera.

It seemed our guide, Manuel, has dedicated his life to Ciudad Perdida as he limps the beaten paths and relays stories of the lives and culture of the Tairona people.

Apparently the Taironas kept dead buried in the floor of their houses for several years in order to keep them company, so strong was their belief in the afterlife.

Hearing Manuel's firsthand account of how in 2003 a left-wing guerrilla group - the National Liberation Army (ELN) - stormed Ciudad Perdida and kidnapped eight tourists from his trekking party was sobering.

Interestingly, the eight hostages were chosen on the basis of their skinny physiques and quality walking shoes, as a measure of their survival chances in the jungle. Perhaps obesity and not owning any shoes is the best assurance of safety in Colombia.

Although all the hostages were eventually released, this story offers a glimpse of Colombia's treacherous past and explains the heavy military presence in Ciudad Perdida and much of Colombia.

There is something magical about spending the night in the city, as the whole place seems shrouded in mystery.

Is this South America's greatest adventure holiday?

Details:

Travellers should be aware that the Foreign and Commonwealth Office warns against travel to this region of Colombia due to the uncertain security situation.

Tours can be arranged in nearby Santa Marta (on the Caribbean coast) and usually leave twice weekly depending on numbers.

Both Turcol and Sierra Tours (info@sierratours-trekking.com), offer tours to the Lost City. The cost of the tour is approximately US$230 (£116), including food, accommodation (hammocks in wall-less shelters) and national park entrance fees.

Make sure to bring appropriate gear for trekking, including good walking boots, mosquito repellent, appropriate clothing for hiking and for nights, and a water bottle.

Fly to Bogota from the UK with Virgin Atlantic and American Airlines via Miami. See the Opodo website for details.