19 hours from Buenos Aires

Less than a day away from Buenos Aires, for a small price one can be whisked in first-class comfort across the pampas to South America's premier ski resort and chicest town.

San Carlos de Bariloche seems out of place to many, for it is more like an Alpine resort transported to the Argentine Andes, what with its wooden chalets and Swiss ski machinery, than part of Latin America.

Famed throughout the continent, Bariloche is often called the Aspen of Latin America, but thanks to a strong pound and weak peso, the costs are certainly nowhere near this league.

This is reflected in the cheap price one can pay to catch a coach from Argentina's capital of Buenos Aires to the ski resort first settled over a century ago by Germans. Although flights exist, they can become booked up and with regular first class coach travel - complete with leather reclining seats, films and even stewards serving champagne - an overnight journey is both much cheaper and just as comfortable. It certainly puts Britain's coaches to shame and even a 19-hour journey flies by.

Once there, accommodation such as the Hotel Llao Llao and
Edelweiss Hotel and a selection of quality, Swiss-style hostels, offer a range of experiences for all wallets.

Bariloche is the chief town in Argentina's famous Lakes District at the heart of Patagonia and has been visited by many celebrities, most notably Che Guevara as he embarked on his famous motorcycle diaries tour and the writer Paul Theroux in his The Old Patagonian Express. It is also a notable stopping point on the way to Chile, with many active holidays featuring the crossing of the Andes to reach Pucon to climb the live volcano there.

However, with a street full of chocolatiers who make a vast array of delicious chocolate right before your eyes and what is claimed to be the best restaurant in Argentina - and in such a gastronomic nation, the competition is stiff - many do not feel the need to do so.

The Mitre Boulevard is a chocaholic's dream come true as it seems that almost every store sells the stuff fresh, though for those less inclined to such sugary treats, there are also several top quality diners to obtain cheap, good food on this road.

Tasty treats are not the only thing one can buy. There are several quality shops selling European clothing for a fraction of the price back home, while anyone looking to pick up some skiing gear would do well to pay a visit.

Skiing of course is a major attraction. High in the mountains, Cerro Catedral is the premier piste, offering a standard of equipment and tuition available in Europe and North America and visitors can hire equipment there and get to the pistes from town on the frequent bus service. During the summer the mountains offering wonderful hiking opportunities if you are looking for the Argentina active holiday experience, though new visitors should be aware of adjusting to the altitude.

Back down at the town, cultural sites include the cathedral, complete with its stained glass images of South American saints and the often violent ways they were martyred. This sits on the stunning Lake Nahuel Huapi, though be warned sharp winds blow across it and can literally blow people away.

For those looking for a traditional experience, the Old Patagonia Express steam railway runs from here to several destinations and buses tour Los Siete Lagos, while rafting and paragliding are popular holiday activities in the winter.

A must on any visit is the El Boliche de Alberto restaurant that serves a simple menu of quality wine, chips and steak yet is deemed by many to be Argentina's best eatery. It serves not just any steak, but thick, almost plate-sized cuts cooked in full view on large metal racks.

People queue even in the winter to get a space and it is not hard to see why with such value for money, though Bariloche has many other quality restaurants.

Argentina is justly famous for its steaks, but the Alpine influence can also be seen in the menus. With a large Italian heritage, the amount of pasta restaurants reflects this, while Casita Suiza and La Marmite cater for those with a hankering for Alpine foods.

The nightlife is also accommodating in a similar way to an Alpine resort, with bars and cheap local diners serving as venues, while Grisu and Cerebro offer more European-style nightclub experiences.

For a location that is cheaply and easily reached from Buenos Aires and offers the chance to explore the Lakes District of Argentina and Chile, Bariloche is a chic yet unassuming town that is definitely not to be missed on any visit to the region.

For further information on Bariloche visit the town's website.

For more information on visiting Argentina see www.turismo.gov.ar

Jonathan Richardson