Sleep Less in Seattle

Caramel macchiatto anyone? How about a grande non-fat latte? No?

Well, not to worry. Even if these varieties of Seattle's most famous beverage aren't your cup of tea, there is plenty besides coffee in this gem of a city to whet your appetite.

Nestled up in the north-west corner of the United States, just 50 miles from the Canadian border, Seattle has spent 40 years forging its own unique identity, separate and distinct from the sprawling metropolises of America's east and west coasts.

Of course, being the home of Starbucks, coffee is its most famous export - as you'd expect from a city with over 300 Starbucks shops.

If the coffee doesn't keep you awake then the attractions may well do so instead. The city is very compact, and a good bus and metro service makes most areas easily accessible. Just don't be confused by a bus system where you only pay once you decide to get off!

If you like live music then Seattle is certainly the place to be as over the years the city has spawned a host of bands and developed a unique musical culture that has exported itself all over the world.

In the 60s Seattle replied to the Beatles-led 'British invasion' with many bands (remember Louie Louie?) and led the charge of punk rock in the 70s, culminating in the grunge explosion of the 90s with the likes of Nirvana.

Live bands still ply their trade in the bars. In the centre of town the trendy Pioneer Square is home to a multitude of bars and restaurants. Check out clubs such as New Orleans and Fenix Underground, which have a cover charge of $12 on Friday and Saturday nights.

Seattle and rain? If you're expecting non-stop downpours you're likely to be pleasantly surprised. Despite comedian Jerry Seinfeld's quip that Seattle resembled a damp patch on the Pacific coast the city's rainfall is actually comparable to that of New York or Boston.

That said, apart from in the coffee, there is water everywhere – freshwater lakes, canals and the saltwater Puget ("PEW-jet") Sound.

The city is also blessed with a sandy stretch of coast called Alki Beach, where beach volleyball is played well into September.

Not for Seattle the tackiness of LA's beaches – it has a friendly and laid-back atmosphere in keeping with the north-western USA in general.

During the day, wander down to the famous Pike Place Market to see the fishstall workers entertain curious onlookers by throwing their wares about.

If you are tempted to sample some of the food you could try 'fat Dungeness crab' or the self-proclaimed world-famous alderwood smoked king salmon.

I settled for some British-style fish and chips, which are also on sale here. It was nice to get a taste of home. The Aquarium on Pier 59 is also worth a look – feeding time for the sealions is very entertaining.

Seattle has some pretty off-beat attractions. In 1889 the city centre was virtually demolished by the Great Seattle Fire and the city authorities decided it was better to simply concrete over the old town and start again.

So when you pound the city's streets you are actually walking over a lost underworld. The great thing is it's still there and you can pay it a little visit. The Underground tour provides a guided exploration of the old city, to which you gain access via a mysterious series of doors and staircases.

Once you are 20 feet down you come across a surreal world – whole streets and sidewalks, old abandoned shops, street signs and the whole panoply of a long-abandoned city.

Tickets cost $11 (£5.60) and can be bought on a first-come, first-served basis from 608 First Ave in Pioneer Square.

For an unusual and slightly wacky tour around both the city attractions and the waters of Puget Sound try tour company Ride The Ducks.

They have converted Second World War amphibious landing craft into sea-and-land touring vehicles, making for a bizarre sight on the city's roads. Passengers are driven around the streets with live commentary from Ride the Ducks' larger-than-life drivers, before suddenly plunging into the waters of Puget Sound and onwards.

This tour also features the famous beach hut where Meg Ryan waited for Billy Crystal in When Harry Met Sally (yes, it really does exist).

For an up-to-date experience you can visit the Seattle Centre, home to the towering Space Needle seen on every tourist t-shirt and coffee mug in Seattle.

The observation deck here gives a pretty good view but you can also visit the Experience Music Project (EMP), a centre that chronicles the rise and rise of the Seattle music scene, with exhibitions of everything from Jimmy Hendrix's outfits to Nirvana's smashed instruments.

Being situated on the Pacific coast, and surrounded by ski resorts and the looming snow-capped Mount Ranier, this city and its environs are blessed with great natural beauty.

Mount Ranier national park is a few hours drive away, and perfect for a short (or long) hike. Also about an hour's drive north of the city is the Skykomish River, known as the "big daddy" of Washington State's rivers, and popular for white-water rafting - but be warned, these are very wild and powerful rivers.

All in all Seattle is an entertaining and laid-back city, blessed with amazing natural beauty and a Californian feel without the tackiness or wannabe actors. Visit now while the dollar is still kind.

Direct flights from the UK take just over ten hours but with a stop on the east coast it is very manageable.

Budget travellers should check out the Green Tortoise youth hostel on Pike St, which provides decent accommodation with organised bar crawls thrown in.

Richard Lacquiere