Summer sailing holiday in Turkey
Wednesday, 13 Jun 2007 14:46

Historic Kalkan on Turkey's Turquoise Coast (photo: gototurkey.co.uk)
Being faced with a laidback lifestyle, jaw-dropping landscape, the very finest cuisine and an off-the-wall sense of humour, those visiting Turkey cannot go far wrong – and for sailing enthusiasts, there can be no better option than the beautiful south-west coast.
Skirting the Turquoise Coast, which is every bit as lovely as it sounds, the discerning traveller can enjoy an active holiday punctuated with stops at the region's various villages.
Although inundated by both Turkish and English visitors in recent years, Kalkan retains much of its traditional charm.
With its front looping around a picturesque harbour, the town clings to a steep hillside, which must be climbed to reach the cash-points, telephone cabins and taxis at its peak.
The restaurants are not as cheap as those in less well-known locations, but you will be faced by a quality selection, often visible in fresh food cabinets from which you will be invited to point and select your choice of meal – common practice for Turkey.
If the boat is becoming too cramped, there is also a range of pansiyon (guest houses) for visitors to choose from, one of which - Kalamaki, after the Greek name for Kalkan - is run by a Scottish/Turkish couple and serves delicious meals on its rooftop terrace. Bar-wise, the Yacht Club has a young atmosphere and well-selected music, and there are a few more bars at the top of the hill if you do not mind the climb.
For traditional fare, there is a delightful family-run pancake place where tourists are asked to take off their shoes before sitting on the cushions to eat, or they can swing lazily in a hammock while the food is prepared.
Next on the coastline is Kas, a buzzing market town which oozes charisma and where everyday life can be considered at close quarters.
When the night draws in, you can soak up the atmosphere by sitting around the town square – easily as satisfying as sitting in one of the bars.
If sleepy fishing spots do not satisfy your soul, Marmaris can be worth a visit. Evolving from a tiny village into a thriving metropolis within 20 years, the town's understated white houses have been dwarfed by mega-sized hotels.
However, the nightlife is very much alive and the old town is unmissable, while the harbour remains as pretty as any in the vicinity.
Bargains a-plenty can be found at the marketplace, where you can pick up packs of apple tea, sweet-smelling spices and Turkish Delight to take home for the relatives.
Further west from Kalkan and Kas, past yet more breathtaking panoramic views of the coast, you will find the winding streets of Fethiye and Mugla region beyond.
It is here you can find the idyllic fishing village of Akyaka, an increasingly popular choice for boaters, although it is by no means "touristy" and encompasses all the essential elements of a relaxing break.
Wander along the sandy beaches and into the protected nature reserve alongside the Yucelen hotel, where you can amble for hours and catch glimpses of the infinite coast through the trees.
In the opposite direction, beyond the characterful town, you will reach a bridge frequented by local fishermen and crossing this, there is a realm of wildlife including rabbits and tortoises which reside peacefully by the shore.
At any time of day or night, the restaurants will be genuinely pleased with your custom and tend to offer a delicious array of stuffed vine leaves, aubergine yoghurt, calamari and sigara borek (cheese rolls) to mix and match, followed by lamb kebabs or seafood casserole served with rice and salad.
Holidaymakers with a bit more to spend will be bewitched by a stop at Hisaronu Bay's Selimiye, set against a spectacular backdrop of mountains and boasting several high-quality restaurants.
Unlike in some of the more popular resorts, the women of Selimiye wear a mixture of traditional and trendy outfits, emphasizing the fascinating meeting of the past and present in this diverse country.
Ten kilometres and a satisfying woodland walk away (make sure you do this before 11:00 or after 15:00 to avoid the most powerful sun rays) is the stunning hamlet Bozburun, which has no major hotel but hosts a variety of pansiyons as well as the common sight of men sitting in cafes playing backgammon.
From both Selimiye and Akyaka you can find dolmuses (public mini-buses) to take you to Marmaris or to smaller coastal treasures for a small fare.
As the word dolmus translates as "stuffed", do not be surprised if you are wedged between 20 locals and a few boxes of goods being delivered to the next destination - this is all part of the sporadic fun of Turkey.
Also do not expect the bus to arrive precisely on time - Turks do not tend to place so much importance on the clock as Western Europeans do.
Meanwhile, when browsing in shops or at one of the peninsula's many markets, the naturally friendly tradespeople are likely to approach and enter into informal conversation with their customers, and will often offer an apple tea and a lively chat without expecting anything in return.
Among the tour operators with active holidays and sailing holidays on the Lycian or Turquoise Coasts are
Responsible Travel,
Exodus and
the Adventure Company.
For more information on visiting Turkey see
www.gototurkey.co.uk
Kate Horstead