Sail to the Med: Across the Bay of Biscay

Vicki and Andi Dunkel run sailing and diving holidays around Europe on board Isicia II, a classic 51 foot Beneteau First yacht. This year their route takes them from Scotland to the Mediterranean and here is the third travelbite from their ship’s log:

The weather forecast was perfect – force three to five winds and the sun was shining so we decided to sail straight from La Rochelle to Bilbao across the Bay of Biscay, which is about a 200 mile journey – bigger than the channel crossing. There was little wind when we set off but it picked up about lunchtime and we quickly made up time sailing at up to ten knots.

For the benefit of sailing enthusiasts, Isicia II is a sloop with a fully battened mainsail and two foresails – one set with the genoa number one and the other with a number three (both rolling furling). The fully battened mainsail and the design of the yacht, means she sails really well downwind giving us ten knots in moderate to fresh breezes and four knots in light winds. Once the mainsail is hoisted and the foresail rolled out, we sit back and enjoy the ride.

At about 2200 hrs, as the sun set, we crossed into Cap Ferret Canyon, which is 3,000m deep in places. This steep continental shelf is what makes the Bay of Biscay a dangerous place in bad weather. Even in these perfect conditions, you could see the water becoming choppy over the steep shelf so you can imagine the seas in storms.

It was a clear night with an unobstructed view of the stars. At about 0200 hrs, the wind quietened to a force two slowing our progress for the rest of the night, but because it remained variable we had to concentrate to avoid jibbing.

The next day followed the same pattern – light winds in the morning and increasing throughout the day and not a cloud in the sky. At lunchtime, I heard a shout from the deck: Minke whale! It passed right by us and we watched her swim off. About 20 minutes later, another one passed us and we could see her in the distance swimming on the surface and puffing through her blow hole. Soon she was right beside our yacht, coming alongside our starboard side, then our port side - checking us out!

At about 1800 hrs the wind strengthened and we could see land. We arrived in Bilbao late in the day and spent the next day on land, walking around the city and visiting the Guggenheim museum. After Bilbao it was along the coast of northern Spain – lush green and mountainous - to Santander, where we anchored outside the city behind Isla De La Torre. The anchorage is beautiful but is subject to swell. The options for a 51 foot yacht in Santander are limited - we are too big for the city marina and the marina by the airport is very expensive and far from facilities.

Next, we are heading further along the north coast of Spain to La Coruna.

To find out more about holidays on Isicia II (suitable for all experience levels) visit their website at www.sailaway.eu.com or call (+44) 07904 267 561.

	The architecturally striking Guggenheim museum in Bilbao.
	Our anchorage in the northern Spanish town of Santander

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