Travel slow in Italy and stay in Orvieto

The cathedral of Orvieto is one of the architectural and artistic highlights of Italy but there is more to be enjoyed in this Umbrian town than the usual rushed tour-party itineraries allow.

The piazza around the duomo gets busy around midday as coach-loads of tourists and school groups swarm around the famous church.

But once they have moved on - to Rome or Florence - the town returns to its usual peaceful elegance and travellers clever enough to stay a night or a week can enjoy a real Italian treasure.

The cathedral is the crowning glory of Orvieto and its façade one of the most beautiful in Italy.

It is decorated with colourful mosaics, writhing statues and coils of carved marble inlaid with red, gold and blue.

In the dim interior, with its tall columns of travertine marble and dark basalt, the sun reflects in the marble floor like faint flames through the translucent alabaster windows, while visitors gaze at the frescoes by Signorelli and Fra' Angelico.

Rising out of the olive groves and vineyards of the lush Umbrian countryside, there has been a settlement on this butte of volcanic tufa since Etruscan times.

The Archaeological Museum (Museo Claudio Faina e Museo Civico) has a fascinating collection of artifacts from this ancient civilisation.

The Romans also left their mark and Orvieto has always had a close relationship with the papacy, even becoming the refuge of Pope Clement VII during the sack of Rome in 1527 by the Holy Roman Emperor Charles V.

Clement had the deep Pozzo di San Patrizio or Well of St Patrick built at this time, fearing a siege.

At the other end of the scale, don't miss the views over Orvieto from the medieval Torre del Moro.

Underground the city becomes even more mysterious, with an Etruscan necropolis and a labyrinth of caves and tunnels used over time for everything from pigeon farming to olive pressing.

These and many more attractions could keep visitors busy for days but enjoying the atmosphere of the town is in some ways even more important.

Women hold conversations across the narrow streets - window to window four storeys up - while hanging out their washing.

In the evening the townsfolk come out for the passaggiata. Gossiping and strolling, Orvieto celebrates its own beauty and a relaxed pace of life that the centuries have not altered.

There are many small artisan studios shops, including ceramic and wood carving artists.

Lovers of Italian food have a treat in store at the Zeppelin restaurant of gregarious chef Lorenzo Polegri, just a few steps form the Palazzo Communale.

Perfect for a romantic meal or a party, Lorenzo and the staff at the Zeppelin are passionate about the cooking traditions of this region and welcoming their guests with true Umbrian hospitality.

How about wild boar with black truffle sauce or Crespella stuffed with scallops seasoned with butter and basil, broccoli sauce and Mediterranean hot red pepper?

The restaurant also runs hands-on cooking courses, from one day to four weeks, covering everything from preparing fresh pasta and traditional breads to truffle hunting.

For a good value B&B in Orvieto try Palazzo del Cardinale on Via Malabranca (palazzodelcardinale@virgilio.it), which has an ensuite room, an apartment and a self-contained studio from €60 (£48) per night.

It really is a former cardinal's palace - built in 1528 - that has been owned by the current family since the 17th century and features beautiful frescoed ceilings and antique furniture.

Anna Valeria is very kind and helpful and puts on a good breakfast, including freshly-squeezed orange juice and home-made jam from her own garden.

The Grand Hotel Italia is a gracious four-star in a lovely 19th century building off the Piazza del Poppolo.

Natasha von Geldern