Spa-ing with the east

Thinking of a beach holiday on the former east German coast? It may not sound right, but it is a long way from the barbed-wire beaches and grey guesthouses you might expect.

With 50 kilometres of powder-fine sandy coast and health spas of the highest quality, the island of Usedom is more undiscovered beaches than cold war.

Getting there from the UK is simple, as the island is only a couple of hours by train from Hamburg. Plus the trains are a welcome change from British rail travel, the DB (Deutsche Bahn) being modern and cheap.

Usedom has 15 coastal villages and three imposingly titled, "Emperor Spas", each with its own pier. Heringsdorf Pier was built in 1893 and at just over 500 metres, it is the longest in Germany. From here you can pier hop your way along the coast to Misdroy in Poland, or just stroll.

Whether it is lazing on the sand or promenading the front, one thing is obvious: the lack of tourist 'tack'. And it feels safe. On the beach, in place of plastic B&Q loungers, are Strandkorbe: brightly painted, boldly numbered, mini beach huts. The sand is spotless, the streets are clean, and with only one per cent salt, the seawater is more like mineral water than brine.

The area has an established 'spa culture', with therapies offering year-round relaxation, rejuvenation and a multitude of treatments.

The Hotel Zur Poste 'Hotel Zur Post' in Bansin is an example of one of the high quality spa hotel's found here.

Formerly a post office, the hotel features three restaurants, two bars, a library and conference rooms, and 1,200 square metres of spa and treatment pools: it's a place to relax, not to party. Like most of the property along this coast the hotel was built in the imperial, (Kaiser) period, and looks similar to houses in the British Regency style.

If you are looking for the active holiday experience by the coast, then the area between Bansin and Ahlbeck is simply beautiful. Palatial villas snuggle the coastline and overlook a tide-less Baltic, and you can ride on the cycle path or walk along the white beach and enjoy its fine powder-like sand.

Back from the coast you can find huge swathes of woodland and lots of cycle routes to choose from. Whether it is boating on one of the islands' lakes or visiting the nearby Polish border, you can be assured of a rewarding stay.

Resorts along this coast retain a small-town feel. Aside from the hotels, much of the accommodation is family-run and is sometimes only available as self-catering. Find the right guest house, such as the one run by the Schley family, and you can enjoy being treated more as a visitor than a customer.

The area has 14 times more tourists than inhabitants. A good example to illustrate this proportion is the village of Zempin: it has only 930 inhabitants and in 2005 it received 36,000 tourists. However, do not expect to feel cramped, even in the height of summer there is plenty of space for all its visitors.

A visit to this area has a therapeutic effect. The fresh air and tranquil surroundings all play their part, and as an area relatively undiscovered by Brits offering lots of active holiday options, Usedom is a great destination for a getaway this summer.

For more information on visiting Usedom see www.mecklenburg-vorpommern.eu or the German tourist board website on Usedom.

Mark Pawlak