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Walk the Pink Granite Coast in Brittany

Wednesday, 02 Apr 2008 11:38
A walking holiday in Brittany (photo: Natasha von Geldern)

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Brittany has a multitude of beautiful walks to keep holidaymakers active and one of the most spectacular is the coastal path of the Cote de Granit Rose - the pink granite coast.

This famous pathway, called the Sentier des Douaniers, is well-marked from the holiday town of Perros-Guirec to the harbour of Ploumanac'h.

There is parking along the Plage de Trestaou in Perros-Guirec and the road up the hill leads walkers to the sign-posted Grand Randonee 34 (GR34).

The whole coastline of Brittany is referred to as le Cote Emeraude - the emerald coast - due to the rich green colour of the sea.

Combine this with the eccentric tumbling towers of pink granite rock and you have spectacular views around every bend in the path.

The colour of the stone changes with the light - from dusky red to a glowing orange.

Approaching the cove of Pors Rolland the colourful rock formations become by turns fantastic and grotesque - after millennia of work by the sea.

Stop at the restaurant at St Guirec beach, where Breton couples out for Sunday lunch consume platters heaped with delectable mussels, crab, lobster and other fresh local seafood accompanied by crisp Riesling.

If you can't take the mass seafood experience try the mussels cooked with creme fraiche and lardons or the local speciality - fish soup.

On the beach a tiny oratory to sixth century Welsh saint Guirec is traditionally held to help young ladies in search of a husband.

However, the popularity of this tradition has led to the poor saint's granite nose being entirely rubbed away.

A little further around the promontory towards Ploumanac'h a tiny chateaux perches among the pink rocks looking out to sea.

The return route skirts Ploumanac'h harbour and estuary, striking inland through quiet villages and past the huge mounds of tumbled pink granite quarried from the cliffs.

The stone is put to good use in the houses, walls, kerbs and even gravel footpaths of the region.

At the top of the hill is the tiny village of La Clarte. The 14th century chapel of our lady here was supposedly built by the Marquis de Barac'h in gratitude for a shaft of light falling on the land that guided his fleet when engulfed in a sea mist.

Finish the walk by descending the hill and returning to Perros-Guirec along the GR34.

This is one of Brittany's most well-known and popular walks - and with good reason as it is a great day out for all the family.

Travel information:

Brittany Ferries have day and overnight ferry services to St Malo, where you can hire a car and drive to Perros Guirec in less than two hours.

Various airlines offer flights to the city of Rennes or you can take the Eurostar to Lille and drive or catch a train to Brittany.

Natasha von Geldern

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