Lots to see in northern Brittany
Monday, 13 Nov 2006 09:49

The popular attraction of the Mont St Michel, on the Cotes d'Amor in northern Brittany, France
St Malo, as one of Brittany's main entry points, is often admired by tourists from the deck of a car ferry.
A single church spire towers above the imposing walled city, which adjoins the busy ferry port where many Britons begin and end their holiday in France.
Many, with miles of driving ahead, simply pass through the city's more modern outskirts on the way to or from their gites or campsite.
But St Malo, and the surrounding Ille et Vilaine and Cotes d'Amor regions possess plenty to reward those who devote time to exploring them.
Fresh from the ferry, stepping through one of the three gates into St Malo's walled old town feels like stepping into your holiday.
There are plenty of creperies and salon du the's within St Malo's compact centre that offer a more refined alternative to breakfast on the ferry.
But for those staying in the area, the evening is the best time to visit the town. Like many French towns, this is when its streets become alive with people popping in and out of small boutiques that are open late, or restaurants and bars open later still.
In the area around St Malo there is an abundance of interesting towns and beaches that are not overrun with tourists.
The exceptions to this are the heaving labyrinthine streets of the Mont St Michel, which are nevertheless worth allocating half a day for – preferably in the morning to avoid the crowds - and the popular resort of Dinard, a forty minute drive inland, following the path of the Rance.
A well-preserved medieval town with half-timbered buildings, Dinan sits on the opposite side of the river Rance to St Malo.
The town's river-front is overlooked by the tall arches of a road bridge, which is also a good place to go for impressive views of the surrounding area.
The narrow cobbled street leading down to the river front is home to a number of artists only too pleased to show-off their wares, while the river front itself is the best place to find something to eat. Dinan hosts a market day on Thursday, which can be interesting but is best avoided if you want to steer clear of the crowds.
Dol de Bretagne is not worth an excursion in itself, but if you are in the area it is a pleasant town to while away a few hours. It also keeps up the French tradition of having an impressive but unseemingly large cathedral for its size.
Traditional Breton dancing takes place on the street outside the town hall in the high season and with plenty of cafes nearby, you can pull up a chair and soak up the atmosphere with a few drinks.
A couple of hours can also be spent in nearby Combourg, where the main attraction is a well-preserved castle – although it is not worth paying to see the grounds alone.
There are plenty of uncrowded beaches along the Cotes d'Amor in the resorts of St Cast, La Luniare as well as Dinard and St Malo.
St Jacquet de la mer is a small, largely uncommercialised town with a few beaches, also worth a visit.
The area's best beaches, however, are at Sables d'Or des Pin and the road leading to Fort la Latte – an ancient fort on a small island off the headland.
A small modern village with creperies, restaurants and a casino, Sables d'Or's large unspoilt beach does not get crowded even in peak season.
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