Holidays in unspoilt southern Corsica

Flying into Figari airport in southern Corsica you could be forgiven for wondering: Where are all the people?

This sparsely-populated corner of France is ruggedly beautiful and deservedly popular with beach holidaymakers but is unspoilt by either tourist hordes or tat.

The coast around the Gulf of Valinco has many golden sand beaches and sleepy villages and even the main resort town of Propriano is a relaxed place with family-run hotels.

In the shoulder season there are more locals playing cards in the bars than tourists.

The Bergerie Tisoggiu was once a shepherd's hut perched high in the hills above Propriano. Nowadays it has been extended and converted into a stylish self-catering villa where the owner has thought of everything to ensure her guests have a comfortable stay.

From this eyrie the views down the coast are nothing short of spectacular - down to the tiny resort town of Propriano and far along the shore in both directions.

The sun brings out the blue of the sea and gold sand beaches and the sun setting behind the northern promontory is mesmerising.

French is of course the official language of Corsica but many people also speak Corsu and it is taught in schools, although it has no legal status.

There is clearly some nationalist feeling as someone has been very industrious, defacing many road signs so that only the Corsican version can be read.

This region shelters evidence of Corsica's very origins in a number of prehistoric sites, as well as the remnants of the period of Genoese rule.

In a lushly-wooded valley a 1,000-year-old olive grove shelters the remains of an 8,000-year-old Neolithic settlement. Filatosa has the remains of a temple and rough stone dwellings tucked among the strangely-shaped boulders, now covered with moss.

Tall menhirs with human faces, armour and weapons point to times of conflict, shifting power bases and religious beliefs.

Further up in the Alta Rocca mountain region, a small turn-off on the way to the village of Zonza leads to an area of huge granite boulders, which, carved by wind and water provided homes for successive waves of pre-historic immigrants to Corsica's south coast.

Neolithic peoples arrived here at Cuccuruzzu seeking a constant water supply and grazing for their domesticated animals.

Now the remains of walls, villages, animal corrals, houses and citadels are overgrown with moss and forest, commanding impressive views over the valley and across to the jagged-granite teeth of the Bavella pinnacles.

The pinnacles are the centre of the Alta Rocca region, only an hour's drive from Propriano and home to some of the most beautiful scenery in Corsica.

The region is criss-crossed by ancient and modern trails and the opportunities for walking and mountaineering are seemingly endless.

Take a stroll out to Campomoro at the tip of the gulf. Apart from the fine sandy beach and clear turquoise water you can visit the Genoese tower - the largest on the island.

The coast below the tower is lined with fantastical rock formations and you can extend your gentle (one hour return) walk to the tower from the village by exploring the coastal path.

There are plenty of golden sand beaches in the Valinco region but the best place we visited was Plage de Cupabia. This is unspoilt with a capital 'U' and although it is an easy drive from Propriano it feels completely isolated and peaceful.

Surrounded by green-cloaked hills, there are a only a few homes high up away from the beach and one small campground. A squat watchtower adorns each headland.

You can also walk to Cupabia across the hills from the pretty village of Serra di Ferro. Set amid olive groves and shaded by fig trees, this is a pleasant spot for a beer and a pizza.

Where to eat:
U Pescadori is the busiest restaurant in town and with good reason. It is everything a seafood restaurant should be, with an impressive display of fresh seafood outside the door and a contented-looking cat.

A short drive from the Bergerie Tisoggiu, the tiny (ten house, one church) village of Viggianello has a popular local restaurant - Chez Charlot - where you can enjoy a drink on the terrace overlooking the Gulf of Valinco and a delicious plate of Corsican stew.

Where to stay:
Corsican Places offers seven nights self-catering accommodation at Bergerie Tisoggiu, near Propriano from £429 per person, based on four sharing in September 2008. For a June 29th departure the price is currently £503 per person.

These prices include return flights from London Gatwick, car hire and a welcome hamper. For more information call Corsican Places Reservations on 0845 330 2113 or visit the website.

Natasha von Geldern