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A week in southern Finistere

Friday, 15 Sep 2006 09:43
The causeway linking the island off Raguenes Plage
The stretch of Brittany's west coast between Lorient, in the 'departement' of Morbihan, to Concarneau in Finistere, is an excellent destination for a family holiday.

travelbite.co.uk explores what there is to see and do if you are planning to spend a week in the area.

Going to the beach
The beaches on this stretch of coast are among Brittany's best kept secrets. Cool calm waters, wide expanses of sand, backed not by hotels, shops and other assorted developments but by rolling French countryside, make them perfect for a day relaxing in the sun.

Raguenes Plage is the region's best beach. From the D783 follow the D77 to Nevez and then signs to Raguenes; park up near the café. The walk from the car park to the beach takes you along a low cliff top, with fields on the landward side, while on the seaward side you will see an island with a lone house joined only by a causeway of sand - this is the outlook from wherever you choose to stop on the beach. There is always plenty of room and water is clean, calm and refreshing if not particularly warm.

Rospico Plage is like Raguenes but smaller, and lies just to its south.

Surfers and body boarders should instead head further down the coast to the beaches between Guidel and Lorient, particularly those along the D152.

Checking out the cities
Quimper is worth a visit, either if the weather is poor or in the evening. It is a medieval town with a good range of shops, a large cathedral and several well-positioned creperies.

The larger Lorient is, by contrast, a very modern town with buildings not out of place in Basildon. However, it has more shops than any other town in the region, and there is a surprisingly pleasant ambience to it, despite its architectural failings.

Must do …
Visit the popular resort town of Concarneau in the evening. Wander through the 14th century walled town – Ville Close – which sits on a rocky island in the harbour. For an evening meal, take your pick from restaurants and bars at the far end of the old town, or on the square overlooking the walls of the old town.

Also worth seeing
Several small rivers reach the sea along this stretch of coast, creating many natural harbours, four of which are worth visiting – Port Belon, Port de Merrien, Brigneau, Port Maneche. Visit one as you return from a day out, or to stop for lunch. At Port Belon Chez Jacky is known for its oysters (huitres in French) and at low tide you can see the oyster beds from the quay.

Driving along this stretch of coast on the D783, you will pass through Pont Aven. The bridging point over the river Aven, this busy but attractive little town has long been home to painters – the most famous being Gauguin. Art and gift shops line the streets, which themselves centre around the river, which opens up into a small harbour downstream.

Getting around
A car is essential for exploring the areas many small towns, harbours and beaches.

Somewhere to stay
Staying in a gites will help you make the most the French countryside when you are not out and about. travelbite.co.uk can recommend a gites in Riec sur Belon (Brittany Ferries property reference BF6015).

Alternatively, there is a campsite at Raguenes Plage (www.camping-le-raguenes-plage.com) or inland at Domaine de Kerlann ( www.siblu.com/domaine_de_kerlann.php).

ConcarneauConcarneau
The walls of Concarneau's old town – Ville Close – lit up at night.
Raguenes PlageRaguenes Plage
Raguenes Plage is picturesque, quiet and undeveloped – perfect for a relaxing day in the sun.
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