Tour of Cypriot wine

Although Cyprus has a lengthy, illustrious history of wine production, during the twentieth century the passion was somewhat lost in an intoxicating mist.

Roots which could be traced back to Greek and Roman symposia were slowly eroded as producers rested on their laurels, allowing vineyards to atrophy and grapes to die on the vines.

However, the dawn of the 1980s brought something of a renaissance for the nation's vitaculturalists - planting new grape varieties, experimenting with innovative forms of production and opening new wineries.

As a result, the island has become an oenophiles' paradise over the past three-decades, with the number of specialist vintages steadily increasing with the passing years.

When visiting the country, wine now adds a real local flavour and can be considered an essential facet of the Cypriot character; the vineyards complimenting the beaches, sky slopes and olive tree-dotted landscape.

Local production of global wines

Today the country has a thriving cottage industry, with more than thirty small-scale vineyards producing an eclectic range of wines.

In part it was this that drew me to the region; the tremendous variety available and the local passion with which it is produced. While wine in Cyprus lacks the international glamour of France, Italy or California, it has a depth of character and knowledge which is easily the equal of more dominant regions.

Indigenous varieties of grape – including Maratheftiko, Mavro and Xinisteri – have been augmented with leading international variations, such as Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc and Palomino – all of which are now grown locally to the highest quality.

The production of these grapes, along with many others, is centred in the south-east of the country – between the cities of Pathos and Limassol, in the foothills of the Troödos Mountains.

Consequently, this region is ideal for a Cyprus wine tasting tour - for both connoisseurs and amateur enthusiasts – with a wide selection of quality accommodation available, nestled in the mountains which are home to warm vineyard slopes.

As a mere dilettante in wine, I was anxious to expand my knowledge and get to grips with some of the finer flavours of the country.

Accommodation

One good location can be found in the village of Lofou, which was abandoned 20-years ago, but now investment by the Cyprus Agrotourism Company has allowed villagers to return to the area, renovating homes in the traditional style.

This accommodation – right in the heart of the winegrowing region - is now available for rent; with individual apartments nestle among a labyrinth of cobbled streets - giving visitors freedom to explore the ruins which sit alongside renovated properties and rustic buildings.

My stay in one of the more spacious rooms on offer here was richly rewarding. The local décor and excellent service provided the perfect base for exploration of the island.

On the other side of the mountain range, but still within reach of many of the island's vineyards, the Cymill Hotel is located just five kilometres from the summit of the Troödos Mountains.

Built into the side of the cliff face, the hotel is the perfect base for cycling holidays around the local hills, and close to the many Byzantine churches which are scattered around the region – some of which are included in the Unesco World Heritage List, and are filled with exquisite artworks depicting religious iconography.

It is also possible to ski during the winter on the upper peaks of the Troödos.

These activities will require transport in order to explore the region's vineyards, but car-hire is widely available on the island.

Vineyards

Once installed in lodgings, it is time to explore the vineyards.

One of the most professional is the Vasa Winery, situated in the village of Vasa Koilaniou, on the slopes of the Troodos mountains, 25km from the urban centre of Lemesos.

The winery produces its own grapes in the acres of fertile land higher up the slopes at Laona, allowing for the production of Cabernet Sauvignon, Saint Timon (made from a blend of Mataro and Cabernet Sauvignon) and Chardonnay.

It is the production of the wine which is of most interest here. Renovated in 1997, displays demonstrate how wine has been produced through the centuries on the same site, juxtaposed with the recently installed modern equipment.

The winery fits into the boutique category, producing less than 25,000 bottles per year, all under the watchful eye of owners Pambos Argyrides and oenologists Sophocles Vlasides and Michel Constantin.

Visits are available by appointment, with Mr Argyrides and his daughter proving not only excellent guides, by also charming hosts with a heritage of three generations invested in the premises and a boundless love for their produce.

On a larger scale – producing 500,000 bottles a year – is the Vouni Panayia Winery. Although this winery does not have its own vineyards it draws supplies from local growers to produce a range of exquisite wines.

It is situated in one of the finest winegrowing regions of Cyprus, with the local microclimate, morphology of the soil, high altitude combining to produce high quality grapes, including the Xynisteri.

The winery is situated in Panayia, near Paphos and visits can again be arranged by appointment.

Finally, there is one further vineyard which must be tried in order to get a fuller understanding of the Cypriot palate.

Commandaria – the oldest named wine in the world still in production - is an amber-coloured sweet dessert wine, made in the Commandaria region of the country, in the foothills of the mountains.

It is made from sun-dried grapes of the varieties Xynisteri and Mavro, and is often fortified. As such it can be relatively strong, at around 15 per cent. Its roots date back to the 8th century BC.

Travel

Cyprus is served by two international airports, with one at Larnaca and the other at Pafos. The island also joined the euro on January 1st this year, making visiting all the easier.

Most regions of the island – including the disputed Turkish controlled north of the island, can be reached in little over an hour, with car hire available from Cyprus Car and other international brands.

For more information about holidays in Cyprus see the Cyprus Tourism Organisation website.

Chris O'Toole