Journey to the heart of traditional Cyprus

Tracing its history back over ten millennia, Cyprus sits at the crossroads of three continents and maintains a rich, lavish history.

And after years of notoriety as a 'party capital', Cyprus is now witnessing a re-emergence of its traditional character. It was this character I was hoping to find.

The island - famously the birthplace of Aphrodite - has proven attractive to invaders for centuries; with armies from around the Mediterranean drawn by the island's geographical proximity to Europe as much as its natural bounty.

In recent decades it has attracted thousands of lobster-tanned, heliophile Brits to its sun-drenched beaches and clubbing destinations such as Ayia Napa.

Cyprus is attempting to widen its appeal; cultivating an image of cultured tranquility, to complement that of its unbridled pleasure-seeking.

It has done so by presenting an alternative - rather than closing down the lucrative sun/sea/sand trade.

Key to this aim has been the rediscovery and promotion of the island's architectural, culinary and cultural heritage – all of which are an antidote to the budget-hedonism of some of the seedier beaches.

Over two tumultuous millennium Cyprus has played host to Mycenaean Greeks; Egyptians; Persians; Byzantine Romans and Venetians – with the British Empire declaring the island a Crown Colony in 1923. So the armies of British tourists are following a well trodden route.

Now the Cypriot Agrotourism Company - is creating an alternative way to holiday on the island.

Over the last few years the organisation has set in motion a programme of restoration of traditional houses in traditional Cyprus villages, and now has 53 locations across the island.

Each seeks to give holidaymakers a first-hand experience of the timeless traditions of village inhabitants; from the simple, serene rhythms of rural life to folk customs, and the authentic tastes of traditional cuisine.

The village where I stayed – Skarinou – is one of the more picturesque. Sitting 190 metres above sea level, it is only 20 minutes from Larnaca and offers a true taste of Cyprus.

While the church of Panayia Odhigitria and the local mill offer some interesting local attractions, it is peace and quiet which dominates the locale.

The island is covered with an abundance of wild flowers, olive and carob trees, shrubs and splendid floral plants basking in the Mediterranean sunshine all year round.

Luminous pink bougainvillea also blaze vibrantly against the white walls of the local houses, reflecting their splendour in the crystal clear waters.

This is the traditional image of Cyprus we have come to expect, and it is no less beautiful close up. A world away from the beaches just over the horizon.

Spread across the island, Agrotourism has accommodation located close to the main centres of Nicosia, Larnaca, Limassol and Paphos.

However, it is nestled in the Troodos Mountains – which can see snow in the winter – the agrotourism concept comes into its own.

Each place is a fine base for a cycling, walking or driving holiday – allowing holidaymakers to explore the local monasteries and archaeological sites, some of which are regarded as world heritage sites by UNESCO.

Angling, mountain-hiking, hiking, gliding, sea sports, yachting and a vibrant golfing environment are also all available on the island.

A short driving distance from Skarinou I found a range of kayaking facilities in some of the warmest waters of the Mediterranean, as a very affordable price of €10 an hour.

Among the finest historical sites is the Tombs of the Kings – again considered a UNESCO world heritage site.

Dating to the Hellenistic and early Roman periods, these ruins include homes as well as burial chambers and a peristyle atrium, and are situated on the north-western necropolis of Pafos.

The site is popular and it is best to visit early or late in order to avoid being swamped by hordes of daytrippers during the day – especially just after the afternoon siesta.

Another must-see is the settlement on the western coast of the island - Maa-Palaeokastro.

First settled by the Mycenaean Greeks around 12,000 BC, the ruins are some 25km from the nearest urban centre, and are best reached by car. The spectacular fortification walls command views over the surrounding seas.

These sites and many others dotted around the island can be reached relatively quickly – given the small size of the island – and enjoyed in a trip of just a few days.

You will need to have your own transport to fully appreciate the Agrotourism accommodation, unless you simply want to relax by the pool for the duration.

Hiring a car is recommended but hotels will be able to secure transportation, while bikes and walking are also suitable for smaller excursions.

Airports at Larnaca and Pafos offer international visitors ease of access, and with Cyprus joining the euro on January 1st this year, visiting is now all the easier.

For further information on visiting Cyprus see the Visit Cyprus website.

Chris O'Toole