Shahjahanabad: The secrets of Old Delhi

Delhi's brand-new underground system makes one feel as if they are in any modern city in the world. But alighting at Chandni Chowk station dispels that feeling instantly.

The heart of the walled city, Chandni Chowk (Moonlight Avenue) dates back to the 17th century. Designed by Jahanara Begum, the favourite daughter of the Mughal Emperor Shahjahan - who built the Taj Mahal in Agra - Chandni Chowk is a long boulevard starting from the Red Fort and ending at the Fatehpuri Mosque.

A canal used to run through the centre of the street, which was also lined with trees shading the havelis (large townhouses where the rooms typically surrounded a courtyard) on the sides of the avenue.

Walking down Chandni Chowk, which is now bustling with cars, cows, people and rickshaws, it is hard to believe that this was once the most fashionable and aristocratic part of Shahjahanabad, the walled city built by and named after the Emperor.

Today, the canal has been filled in, the trees have been cut and the havelis have been converted into shops and flats. But there are still many marks of days gone by, starting with the Jain Temple at the Red Fort end of the street.

The religion dates to the 6th century and its beliefs revolve around principles of non-violence, equality of all life, and self-control. Built in 1656, this is the oldest temple of the Jain faith in Delhi, and is constructed in red sandstone. Inside, there is intricate enamel work along with elaborately painted ceilings.

Within the premises is a bird hospital, which follows the central principle of Jainism non-violence. There is also a large library that holds a collection of Jain scriptures and literature, old and new.

Stepping out of the temple and walking down Chandni Chowk, away from the Fort, there is another building of historical significance. This is the Gurudwara Sis Ganj Sahib, built on the site of the martyrdom of the ninth Sikh Guru, Guru Tegh Bahadur.

The Guru was beheaded here in 1675, on the orders of Emperor Aurangzeb, the son of Shahjahan, because he refused to convert to Islam.

The gurudwara is built in sandstone and marble, and has a quiet, serene atmosphere within. Visitors must remove their shoes and cover their heads when inside, and they can also see the trunk of the tree by which the Guru was martyred, and the well where he used to bathe during his three-month imprisonment prior to his death.

As in all gurudwaras, there is a free lunch service everyday.

Between the Jain temple and the Sikh gurudwara, there is a left turn that leads to one of the many galis (narrow lanes off the main road). This is Dariba Kalan, or the Street of the Incomparable Pearl.

Since the time of Shahjahan, this has been a jewellery market selling gold, silver, diamonds and other precious gems. In 1739, this was where a bloody massacre by Nadir Shah, an invader from Persia, took place.

Another famed gali is the Paranthe Wali Gali, which can be reached by walking either down Dariba Kalan and turning right, or by crossing Gurudwara Sis Ganj and turning left.

A parantha is a fried bread stuffed with vegetables, and is a delicious meal in itself. At Paranthe Wali Gali, the parantha comes with yoghurt and pickles and it is a good idea to order a glass of lassi (a popular drink made out of yoghurt mixed with water, salt, pepper, ice and spices until frothy).

Other galis that might be of interest to visitors are the Khari Baoli, located at the end of Chandni Chowk and full of spice shops, and Ballimaran, which was where the haveli of the famous Urdu poet Mirza Ghalib once stood.

To learn more of the secrets of Old Delhi, take the Yellow Line on the underground towards Vishwavidyalaya and alight at Chandni Chowk. Moving around here is easiest by walking, but cycle rickshaws are a good option if you wish to take the weight of your feet.

Aditi Charanji