Mumbai madness

From the air at six am Mumbai is a jewelled archipelago, glittering in the inky night. The daytime reality is less jewel-like but equally fascinating. The sights, smells and sounds of India's most populous city can be overwhelming, with even a brief taxi ride offering a kaleidoscope of noisy colour through the windows.

The contrasts of modern India are increasingly apparent. Huge billboards light up the night with the smiling faces of Sachin Tendulkar and Sunil Gavaskar advertising life insurance.

Beneath them are pavement sleepers, pariah dogs and seething traffic of all types, including horse-drawn carts.

Behind the parade of commerce and public life the endless slum encampments can be seen, teeming with life, as brought to life so vividly by Gregory David Roberts in his novel Shantaram.

A stroll along Marine Drive to the lookout on Narriman point is a relaxing way to walk off your dinner. Mumbaikers jog along the wide footpath in their sports gear or sit on the promenade looking out to see.

The former home of Mahatma Gandhi is a must see. Mani Bhavan has been converted into a memorial museum with exhibits illustrating his life and many believe his spirit still lives here.

Catch a taxi up to leafy Malabar hill and pay your respects at the colourfully decorated Jain temple.

The Jehangir Art Gallery is a national centre for contemporary art and culture, which features new exhibitions by local artists every week.

From the lush Malabar gardens you can see out across the city and the famous Chowpatty beach where fishermen spread their nets and families picnic in the sun.

The gorgeous art-deco interior of the Eros Cinema is the perfect location to watch the latest Bollywood blockbuster. Be prepared for the excitable audience to make their appreciation of the film loudly heard.

Take a day trip on the ferry to Elephanta Island, which departs regularly from the river steps beside the Gateway to India monument.

From the harbour you get the best views of the giant Gateway as well as the luxury Taj hotel. The rest of the city quickly disappears into the murky pollution.

On the island there is an eighth century Mahura temple to Shiva, carved out of the rock with impressive pillared halls and friezes.

Spend a few early evening hours lying about on the grass maidan by the courts of justice, watching the cricketers and children playing.

Sitting outside in our hotel courtyard in the evening a high-wheeled silver swan sleigh passes by, bells jingling on the horses bridle.

It is followed by a man propelling himself along on a low-wheeled trolley. After a few minutes the trolley man returns, holding onto the back of someone's bicycle to hitch a ride.

Magnificent, miserable and full of life, Mumbai cannot fail to make an impact.

It is now even easier to take in the highlights of Mumbai as the Maharashtra Tourism Development Corporation has launched the first-ever guided Mumbai Museum Bus Tour.

This will take visitors around the various museums in the comfort of a specially designed purple, air-conditioned bus.

The twice-daily bus tour departs from the Gateway of India at 09:00 and 13.30 local time, and costs just 500 rupees (approximately £7) per person.

For more information see thethe Maharashtra Tourism website.

Natasha von Geldern